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I don't suppose you happen to have another FV-1 based board or pedal lying around? If so you can swap the EEPROM in and see what happens - to test a new EEPROM you will need to have R5 connected to 3.3V again. Personally on my Arachnid build once I lifted R5 I soldered it to a switch with 0v...

The solder on your EEPROM socket looks good, but I would reflow it anyway just in case. You were measuring correct voltages on it before. That is a good sign. I do know from experience though that the connections from the FV-1 to the EEPROM can be good enough for a multimeter to say that...

To have audio on IC1 pin 14 but not at pin 28 of the FV-1 I am guessing means that you are getting the clean signal through to there. If you are getting audio to pin 1 of the FV-1 then you should get audio out at pin 28 as long as everything connected to the FV-1 is soldered correctly. I would...

pin 13 should not be sitting at 0v. It is tied to 3.3v through R5 and that pin being high is what makes it use the external EEPROM, with it low it uses the internal programs. If it actually connected to ground rather than not connected to anything, then you should still be hearing an output...

It looks as if the central pin on the 8 way switch is badly soldered. It also looks as if one of the pins on that switch is not soldered at all - in fact it looks as if you may have lifted the pad - hard to tell in the photo though. That shouldn't stop power getting to the FV-1, but will...

You mentioned you were sucking out solder. That is a whole different technique. I must admit I am not necessarily the best at that and so I do find I have to do it in short stints and let it cool between. No matter how tempting it is to just do a bit more and get rid of that last bit right...

Putting my hand up too as someone who had a "broken" pedal that had the jacks in the wrong plugs. With the sockets wired the way you have had them, the tip would be correct. The tip would be shorted to ground when there is no plug inserted, but as soon as you insert a plug then it would lift...

With the volume at the same level as when it is bypassed?

Also on those jacks one side is usually switched and disconnects when there is a plug inserted. You need to make sure you get the side that is connected all the time.

Also report what you are hearing with the mix pot fully the other way (Low/down)

It looks to me as if you need more solder on the switch pins - that won't make a scrap of difference to output volume though. The visible pots don't have anything insulating the backs. Do you have anything on the backs of the pots we can't see to prevent them shorting out the board?

OK, the voltages for the dual op amps are wrong, but they are probably correct if you are numbering the pins incorrectly. This is the correct numbering scheme

It sounds as if almost everything is working as it should. Sounds like you won't need to replace U3 fingers crossed. I am a little hazey on exactly how this bypass works, but from my understanding I would be suspicious of the capacitor that is labelled C16 in the above schematic. I think it's...

Yes. Q4 is for bypass, and Q10 carries the effect signal. It is the network around U3 that is doing the switching. Does the LED turn on when the effect is working and off when the effect is bypassed?

OK, it looks like it is a FET switching setup, but the switching bit is mostly missing from the schematic. If you see the lower schematic of the 2, there are 2 FETs at the bottom near the output (unfortunately they are not marked with component numbers so I can't point out better than that...

I don't know if that is the maximum gain you are supposed to get. I don't have one. I do know that I like the sound though. Will definitely consider for my next order. Can you end up with too many drive pedals?

Before I went about removing a dual gang pot I would be measuring it. Power off. Multimeter on ohms setting connected to the wiper and and end (the end in use). Turn the dial and measure each gang. You should get a sweep through the range from 0 to 250k (if using a 500k pot remember there...

Where does the design come from? A drop of 3.77V across that resistor would indicate that the circuit is drawing just under 40mA. It is only a guess but I would have thought that was not a massive current draw for a pedal. It is odd that you measure open circuit across the voltage divider...

What are you using for a power supply? Try a battery clip soldered to a power jack and see if you still get squealing. Some power supplies have enough noise in the power to do this - especially with high gain pedals. A battery will be pure DC though.

The wiring in the documentation is correct. You shouldn't be using a TRS cable, you need a regular mono guitar cable. Tip goes to the input of the board, ring goes to the black wire of the battery snap, and the shield connection goes to the board ground pad. That way inserting a cable into...