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if you take out the inline pre on his mic (apparently just a high pass filter) it has some weird mini XLR on it so I would have to adapt the adapter😑. Shouldn’t a basic jfet buffer do the same thing?

He does have a Deep Blue delay of mine on there now. Building in batches so as not to strain his pocket book.

I actually thought ab using chim chim and Spirtle’s faces as the the Up and Down labels on the Octarock, but couldn’t decide which would be which. Decided it would be better to just stay basic since this player has next to no experience with pedals in general

Might have to check out that Shure doohickey. The Trumpet player runs an audio technica pro 35 that has an inline pre so that may be the bottleneck

Was approached by a fellow marching band dad who plays trumpet in a few local bands who really wanted to dip his toe into the world of pedals. After setting him up with some of my personal pedals to try out he decided that these were keepers and commissioned me to build some for him. He said he...

Well, yes, always check your parts and MOST IMPORTANTLY, check the damn orientation on the silkscreen. The regulator was fine, it was my dumb ass who put it in backwards🫠. Good news is the FV-1 and eeprom seem to be ok.

Since there are very few parts in the 3.3v supply it wasn’t hard to validate that everything was good as far as components and soldering. Had one L78l33ACZ left from my last Mouser order so decided to breadboard it first and sure enough, sucker is putting out 8v from an 8.99v supply. Check your...

That is my intention if visual inspection and solder reflow doesn’t bring the voltage back into line. Edit: that is if I didn’t ruin the FV-1 and eeprom otherwise I just need to start a new board

Long story short, the L78l33 in a recent HAARP build is putting off 6.7v to the eeprom and FV-1. The effect is there, just distorted when hit with the lower strings. How long can these chips withstand that voltage, are they baked now? Data sheet says max v for the FV-1 is like 3.5v. 5.5v max for...

If all your values check out, try checking continuity on the footswitch to make sure no solder got under the board and is making an unwanted connection. When the switch is set to circuit on, you should only have continuity on pins 1/2, 4/5, and 7/8. Pay special attention for any connections...

All good. I appreciate you putting eyes on it

That is intentional based on other posts on the forum concerning that particular chip and overall function. Per Robert’s post above, no problem with single coils just hotter pups cause the distortion

Cock oil snake rings installed and SEEM to be doing as claimed so huzzah

+1 on the distortion footswitch even with the volume disparity. I love the BassBalls in a synth bass setup. the upper filter really helps get definition with the octave and fuzz going. Clean it’s less than amazing.

Thanks for the replies. I have a couple on order with fingers crossed. Also ordered up a 6L6 to try in this little beasty. The folks at Swart seem to lean towards trying different tubes to find one that doesn’t rattle, but as good as their amps are, I imagine it is hard to mitigate it in such a...

At 44 cents a piece (not including shipping) they aren’t going to break the bank.

Legit cure for tube rattle or snake oil? My Swart 6v6se has some wicked rattle that I’d like to put in check.

An update on the neon yellow. It just drilled my enclosure and though not nearly as bad as some of the colors/finishes available I did get a few more chips than I would normally You can see it by the LED bezel. Nothing major, but use a little extra caution.

Skreddy Screwdriver (MBP Cosmopolitan) or Lunar Module (PPCB Fuzz Aldrin). Prefer the Cosmopolitan, but you may not want to have to go digging for an NPN Ge transistor.

Hot off @steviejr92 CNC and brake I saw these and needed one. Not really wanting to go down the Ge tranny circuit rabbit hole to build what it was intended to emulate I opted for a Kazoo instead. The Kazoo is a simple but unique fuzz that I just really like. The only change from stock is that I...