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I know it's kinda hit & miss across the board with capacitor tolerances, but I don't think I've ever seen 5% tolerant electrolytics; typically it's 10% to 20%. Are some brands/types more accurate/less tolerant than others? And am I the only one that meter-measures caps for lowest...

I did a PCB using the original DS-1 layout (including the TA7136AP IC and 1S2473 diodes), minus the bypass switching so it can be wired for true-bypass. My life has been extremely busy over the last year, so I'm hopefully going to be etching the boards this weekend.

I etched a board for a Tube Driver a long while back, and I'm thinking about finishing it up. Do I NEED an enclosure with vents? I've read that the TD tube doesn't generate much heat, if any. If so, any recommendations for vented enclosures (slanted, if possible)? Thanks!

Thx!

I'm working up a label for the case of my Nucleus build, but would like to know the settings (L to R) of the mids selector (low-med-high). Is that the correct order, looking at the case with the circuit/toggle installed?

Yep, I read the BOM. 😎 I’ve just read too many negative things about X7R MLCCs, that I was trying to stay away from them. I guess I’ll give ‘em another shot. EDIT: no part number on those WIMAs on ebay, so I’ll pass for now.

So, where are you guys getting your small 1uF caps? I'm building the Nucleus, and it's got several 1uF caps squeezed between other (small) caps, and the ones I just got from Tayda aren't going to fit. I can get MLCC X7Rs all day long from Mouser, but these look like (for the most part) coupling...

It could very well be the meter. Higher values (.001uf and up) appear to be good. The pF caps I measured are pretty consistent among themselves, so it's likely the meter that's out of whack.

I'm in a bit of 'paralysis by analysis' here, in that I received several new bags of 5% tolerant pF caps, but they're registering WAY more (like 20% or higher) on my multimeter. I don't have an actual pF setting, but using the nanofarad detection. Anybody else experienced this?

Thx guys - I'll place an order this weekend.

I'd like something with lower tolerance than some of the other film caps I've been using, and I keep seeing those great-looking box caps in these builds. Where are you guys getting yours? I'm just hoping to get values that are more accurate than the MLCC, ceramic and film caps I have. Thx!

For me, it's been hit & miss. I've never had any Menatone stuff sound good through my Fender amps, and it's been hit/miss with Catalinbread's stuff, but I have gotten amazing/satisfying results with these through my Super Reverb head & 212 cab: Wampler PlexiDrive & CrankedAC Ed Guidry's BSIAB...

Quick edit - my mistake: It's lectric-fx that is doing their take on a CE-1, not AionFX. Still, I'm interested.

Yeah, those look pro. Slight side note: AionFX’ next project is supposed to be their take on a CE-1.

Changed my mind about the direction for this board and ordered the EEPROM for the ThreeVerb, but still curious about the above changes.

I read the review of the Radium Springs where a user tweaked some resistor values to adjust the tremolo level, when using those modes: "replace the resistors controlling the tremolo signal with trimpots using the handy Trimmit boards or socketing them and changing them out until you like them."...

Thanks guys. I might give drag soldering a try on my next build. I typically do what @Stickman393 describes above: working opposite points on the chip, slowly to avoid overheating.

I typically never solder ICs (and rarely solder transistors), so I'm a little skittish/overly-cautious with my first FV-1. Pretty much the only question I have is: how long should I wait in between soldering each leg? EDIT: I've already started soldering this one, but it's slow going as I'm...

Is there a project/board for a Hooke clone/workalike??

I ordered from Amplified Parts. I just wanted a couple, since this is my 1st time with FV-1s.