Search results

I’d remove all outboard connections. Then look build doc wiring guide, follow it precisely and trim wire lengths short as possible. Now you have extra connections between grounds and wires are so long they could act as hum picking antennas. After that lets dive into component values?

Any dirty IC boost works, flavor is you to choose. I also heard if your extreme enough you could put muff before rat.

That crotch toggle is misaligned just few millimeters! ;)

I need to build octave fuzz too! Is there updated build doc or schematic with tweaks available? Or should I just bump @Robert . :)

That was a good share @drew.spriggs , full of useful info bits and tricks to try. :)

What’s the value of resistance you get @Feral Feline ?

No need to get into it as all the info ever needed is there hold by guitarnutzTWO. :)

In peepeecb schematic there’s no 100nF capacitor to ground/shield for gnd ref and for HF/RF noise rejection. Some circuits include it parallel between positive and neg leads after first filter electrolytic filter capacitor (values vary from 22-220uF). Or you do it like in my sketch and 100nF cap...

Does it chirp in the enclosure and when you add 100nF as my sketch below suggests? Electrolytic capacitor value is microfarad, not pico!

Care to share cap’n’pot values with P90s? I have TB+V controls currently on my baritone with only one P90, but thinking about rewiring it, because currently treble cut isn’t effective practically and bass cut just cuts too deep. Gonna add humbucker to it too, but into middle position as I don’t...

How about replacing 750r resistor with a 1K trim pot and setting the value by ear or eye/nose as components release their mojo when accidentally shorting something with a flathead screwdriver.

Have you double checked your transistor CBE orientation is correct to the schem? Have you tried adjusting emitter/collector resistor values for correct bias or tried completely different transistor?

Old content, but better to gather this one here too before parting ways with it. Too bad I didn’t drill led holes big enough to fit those leds in first place. Fuzz’n’Burn p2p Isolated jacks, bus star grounding, trims for transistor bias on electra and meathead sides and enclosure shielding...

I tried to solve this with 3PDT, but couldn’t figure it out. I think it needs to be 4PDT to make this work. I’ll post my sketch soon. Edit. Guess this will work? CLR 3.3-5 kOhm

I tried to think what a diode would do, but cannot make any proper statements with current level of knowledge. But if you combine 100r resistor HamishR suggested and 100nF cap from me you get this: Lowpass filter on DC and cutoff frequency at ~15.9kHz.

One thing I’ve picked reading this board and for you to try too is adding a 100nF cap (ceramic/plastic) from power jack socket positive connector to pedal housing with leads as short as possible. Best to ensure secure connection with bolt and lock washer. My OneSpot whines more than cheap...

I was suspecting IC1/2 function correctly, but thanks for validating it! Too bad I mostly have variety in single OPAs, but lack on duals. I just changed IC1 back to TL072 before todays rehearsal as I need those high freqs to achieve some real diversity on my pedal board.

Guess it’s time to start a build thread I’ll be updating with new builds worth mentioning. So let’s get it on. GCI Brutalist Jr I had a need for a distortion and Brutalist was suggested for me. I don’t like waiting and paying postage for a PCB or two so stripboard was a natural choice even...

Same has happened to me and luckily I noticed it before socketing those sensitive programmed ICs in the build. Good reminder to always check sockets with DMM before going further and double check pin orientation on transistors from datasheet and with a tester.

@hereonmars any update how troubleshooting went and did you find out what was the cause of excessive humming?