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I re-flowed the connections on the toggle switch and on the jack, and the toggle is working again. Haven’t plugged the remote switch in yet to test that part. Suppose I wanted to add an indicator LED for the high gain channel, any idea where I would need to wire it in?

Well, it worked! At first the toggle worked fine. However, after using the red remote, the toggle switch stopped working, even after unplugging the remote. I’m not sure what happened to the toggle. I think I’m also going to try a different combo of resistors to get an even gainier high gain setting.

You rock! Thank you for this! If it works I’ll have to integrate it into some other builds. Here’s what I have on hand.

Rad! I’m up for it! Would you be able to possibly make a diagram for the wiring? And is this the kind of Jack I need? https://lovemyswitches.com/1-4-stereo-switched-enclosed-jack-solder-lugs/ Thank you so much for the reply! This is going to be really fun.

I want to add a high/low gain switch to my Glory Hole, and I've seen it done with toggle switches, but I'm wondering if anyone knows how to wire an input jack to use with my Red Remote to switch R7 between stock (220k) and 470k. Can this be done? Thanks! Here's a reference image (not my build!)...

I’m about to wire up a Tele with two humbuckers and two volume pots; no Tone pots. Both will be push/pull, with one splitting both pickups, and the other putting them out of phase. Is this diagram correct? The text at the top says one of the pots is “series/parallel” but the diagram itself is...

I’ve been looking at getting one of these to use on my Les Paul for pickup switching but it needs to be extra tough for doing some rhythmic kill-switching Ace Frehley style. Are these worth the expense or should I stick with a Switchcraft toggle?

I’ve only tried putting in three MP-40A’s all with the same leakage. I might try switching in one or two with higher leakage to see if that affects the sound. As it is, the sound is very big and full, but not as high-gain as an original. You can max the volume and attack and still not have a ton...

That’s just some masking tape I lined my testing box with to avoid shorts while I mess with stuff.

Full report on the sound (and maybe a video demo) coming shortly. EDIT 15/5/24: Last year I caved and got a matched set of transistors specifically for a Mk1. After another year of working on other projects, I came back to this one and finally put the transistors in and...WOW. There it is...

It worked!

I just got three MP-40A’s from eBay and the seller says they’re matched, so I’m gonna try to put all three in the Vendor and see what happens.

Could I use three matched MP-40A’s?

What transistors did you use for this, and do you have any more?

EDIT: I tried a 47R in place of the 10R in R3, and the squeal at max gain is gone, though I think it loses just a bit of attack/gets a little sponge-y. Any other values you guys suggest? I’d also love to have the Level pot have more range with unity gain being near the middle instead of the...

WHOA! This guy’s build sounds and functions just like mine! Pretty sure there’s nothing wrong with mine now.

It’s actually fairly high gain, at least mine is. I’m in Guns N’Roses territory over here and turning the Gain down doesn’t really do anything.

Got it all mounted in the enclosure and the problem persists. I’m wondering if the Gain pot could be the culprit. It has almost no change in gain no matter how the pot is turned, except for the squeal at the end of the dial. Do bad pots happen? I’ve never come across one.

Copy that. I appreciate the reply. I just drilled an enclosure for it today so I’ll keep that all in mind.

I do indeed.