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It is time to validate voltages. Start with VCC and ground throught the signal path and then measure the source to gate volatage (I think that is the one to check in this configuration, maybe someone else can correct me).

Sorry, I misunderstood the question.

Also, I keep looking at this, did you put your DMM in continuity mode and validate there there isn't a connection from + to ground here?

Time to bust out the schematic and start with validating VCC and grounds. Start there and then you can check the gate to source voltage on the transistors.

I didn't double check the pin outs, but assuming they are the same, It wouldn't account for all the issues you are seeing with power. This is where you should start.

Capacitance adds in parallel. You can sub a single cap for a pair wired in parallel with no issue.

Just Q1 or did you do Q1, Q2 and Q3 with that one?

Do you have covers on the pots in the second row? Also can you confirm no solder bridge in the + power and ground pad directly beside it?

Can you post pics with it boxed? Just to double check the offboard wiring. Really, I'm grasping at straws here though. Also, you can validate grounds and VCC per the schematic as an extra layer of validation.

When you subbed the tantalum caps in, did you validate polarity, I'm guessing you did since you didn't smoke 'em but nothing else visual jumps out at me at the moment.

Put the circuit on a breadboard and try some stuff. When I first assembled it, I accidentally put the wrong resistor in R11 which kept the circuit from going into high distortion. You could start there and see if it does what you want.

Nice. That came out well. I just got that board in myself last week. I'm going to put it together with a phoenix ultra overdrive in a single enclosure with an order switch.

Thanks, but now that I know the pin reference, I can get it figured out. Plus, resoldering that switch would be a PITA.

Yeah, the one I sourced travels all around. Thanks for the info.

Yeah, I get that. Which pin on the switch is 1 or which hole on the schematic is 1? It doesn't do me any good to know the names of the reverb effects if I can't tell for sure where the sequence begins. I'm looking for something more definitive than my ears and a guess.

I can't tell just by ear, so how can I figure out which selection on the rotary switch corresponds to which effect?

I used 3mm for the LED and 9.5 for the power jack. Adjust those for the parts you prefer. Also, I would space out the Input and Output a bit further away from each other for this enclosure, but that is how it is drawn for the 125B. You can either add to the X values or let me know if you want...

Centered in that enclosure or what?

Way to go! I thought the black wire on the foot switch looked strange but I figured it was just longer then the other and sitting at a weird angle. I'm glad you got it going. I would recommend that you buy DIP sockets for your ICs in the future. Tayda sells quality ones for cheap. That will at...

Yes. Vref is 9v in this case. Attach/touch the negative lead of your meter to any ground point or the negative in of the power jack and then use the other lead to check Vref against the schematic. If that checks out, put your meter in continuity check mode and check ground to ground through the...