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It’s expensive, but the Free the Tone Future Factory is the first pedal that made me think of what a better rack system does. Interface is a bit weird, sort of like a jet cockpit, but it’s not hard to learn, and once you get it, it’s very WYSIWYG. True stereo, or you can set it up as a delay...

As others have responded, that's the attitude that pretty much everyone here fully appreciates, so you're come to the right place. I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess that you haven't done any high voltage builds yet, (mainly from your underestimation of what info is needed to trace a...

Don’t know the quantities these are being made in, but as a (former) machine/prototype owner, that seems like a easily justifiable cost to me, and I’m a bit of a cheapskate. Even though I could price out projects by “gut” pretty accurately, I made a habit of breaking down per step costs and...

It’s worth it to have some flux on hand. I really didn’t until I started doing surface mount boards, and the method I learned works great, with the first step being wetting all the pads with a fine drop of flux, then placing the part into the tiny puddles. But once I started using it for than...

However, it’s more complicated than that! There are two configurations of on-on-on switches, that have link different pins when the toggle is in a given position—so you need to use the correct type. Here’s a graphic lifted from a @Feral Feline post from a few years ago...

I didn’t fully think through “Blammo!”…

Just make sure that the fan motor does not produce any sparks!

These two cover my experiences also—both builds were for friends. The Bottlehead projects are really good sounding; I was almost shocked at how good their phono preamp is. (And he used to make a small guitar amp that I am truly sad I didn’t get when they were available.) My current headphone amp...

The LA-1A is almost impossibly quiet, and I think the parallel operation is a definite part of that. Many years ago, I built a phono preamp, for low output moving coils, that used two gain stages before the output stage, all 6DJ8 variations. This was back when you could actually buy, for not too...

When you replace the resistors, leave a gap between the board and the resistor body. (I use a popsicle stick as a spacer, then pull it out.) This let’s the resistor dissipate more heat, protecting it and the board.

i use alligator clips also, but if I need to poke around anything with more than ~40 volts running through it, I use probes with insulation until the point, just to keep from hitting things and creating shorts.

As are these—or you can do a few layers of heat shrink over an existing pset of probes.

I think @Robert usually references the original parts, if they are still available. With the original pedals, it really depends on who the maker was—very often, it's whatever was be least expensive, even if it's just a matter of pennies. Certainly with something like the wild number of Muff...

When you play clean, can you really push the volume through it? If it can play loud while clean, I’d recommend trying just your guitar, amp, and a single drive or distortion peddle, as a test. I‘ve built amps, but can’t pretend to really understand what the electrons are up to. But it seems...

I’ve built a few “dumb” loop switchers, and used 1x 2 inch aluminum tubing as a housing. I cut one of the 2 inch sides so that only 1/4 inch is left on each side, and screw in a thin plate of aluminum on the bottom, with folds at each end to close it up. (There is a slight notch cut into the 1/4...

Not that I’m opposed to building several varieties of switchers (or anything else, it would seem), but knowing what some of the other upcoming options might be would certainly be great. I know it’s still early in the process, and your starting this thread as an organizing one for the possible...

My email from Antique Electronic Supply showed these, and I suddenly knew just what pedals have been waiting for them...

How about the next size up (chicken head)?

I always do a thin tinning coat on both wires, then position them so they’re as tight as possible against each other and wave the soldering iron in the general vicinity. I just saw those Omnifixo clamps for the first time this morning—they look really nice.

The other approach to this is to cut the screw shorter. For screws up to #8, these work very well. (And on most “included” screws, which are usually shit steel, the larger sizes cut fine too.)...