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I use an old set of helping hands to hold my solder spool and my solder wick ... and usually a spool of whatever wire I'm using for a build

btw, your bullshit pressure campaign via forum message, real not appreciated.

I don't care to help this knob ... edited For anyone else reading this in the future ... you can't turn a sow's ear into a silk purse. You might make the blues/hot rod series of amps sound less like they do but you aren't going to make one a classic Fender amp. If this were just my opinion then...

I'm not 100% on whether I still have them but I've done them for a customer and if we're being honest, it is a mod for mod's sake ... no real improvement where you're like "oh well you've GOT to do this"

the short answer is no, you can't just drop a switch in there because you have no way of advancing the sequence ... here's some DIY for you https://diyaudiocircuits.com/8-step-sequencer/ https://diyaudiocircuits.com/video-8-step-sequencer/

in the past I would run the dpdt on off on with wires to the center lugs and LEDs across the center lugs ... the other diodes sets would be wired across the outside lugs of the switch ... so long as whatever you have mounted on the outside lugs has a lower Vf than the LEDs they will be what...

Anyone ever change the miller cap (c4 250pF) on the booster at the beginning of the ds-1? I don't have one in front of me to mod at the moment but I'm curious if the fairly standard big muff value of 470pf helped any (other than on paper, I get that it should roll off more treble) ... if not...

I assume (probably incorrectly) that the harmonic tremolo curious are mostly interested in the original Fender design ... if so the high pass filter corner frequency is about 636Hz and the low pass filter corner frequency is about 144Hz

hair dryer probably ... I went one at a time on this effort and used a shot glass full of boiling water and dunked the knobs in there (yes, turned the pedal over and dunked one knob at a time) long enough to heat them up for removal ... which if you are unsteady or generally clumsy is ill...

Ok ... but prepare to buy replacements ... in order to stand your best chance at not pulling the shafts out of the Chinesium pots you'll want to heat the knobs up quite a bit first ... whether it softens any potential glue or it is just thermal expansion working in your favor, it saves money and...

here comes the tough love ... your soldering abilities aren't up for a project of this size and scope. burned wire insulation, melted cap corners, sloppy wiring, inconsistent solder application ... you hit every benchmark of bad work that may doom a lesser build but instead we have one of the...

did you check your math on that 50%? show your work

yeah ... I could sell off all my dirt and keep the tonebender mkii and be ok ... I wouldn't be great, but I'd be ok ...

imo ... the Ruetz mod is kinda garbage for a rat on guitar. That isn't to say that the concept isn't without merit wrt to bass guitar, as the proco juggernaut simplified the feedback loop arrangement of the rat by cutting it down to a single 220R resistor and 47u capacitor (15Hz corner...

SES is Semitronics

in the very limited audience it is for (especially considering price point) the Orange Bax Bangeetar is a modern Orange amp-in-a-box that absolutely delivered. I'd run that into the return of a HRD all day long ... on the more DIY accessible end of the spectrum, *most* of the jfet based...

2SC828 transistors, matched (Vf) BAT46 rather than germanium diodes

1 uf

I don't recall whether it had a trimpot here is the wiring diagram