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shorting jacks would be cheaper ... single wire between the shorting lug of channel 1 output and shorting lug of channel 2 input

dual gang the presence knob, probably what wampler did

it's not the true mammoth electronics experience if the order isn't missing parts ...

the pots aren't metric ... the brass insert is for the set screw ... there are scads of cheaper 1900 knobs with no brass insert and the plastic strips if you so much as open the bag they came in. why not the open jacks? open jacks are fine. Using deep thread open jacks meant for an amp chassis...

buy the 1900s with the brass insert ... and don't use the deep thread open jacks like I did because I was lazy and had them lying around. also ... the fourth setting shouldn't have a wire to the rotary switch, but I knew that going in because of other people's mistakes ... mysteries still...

Here ... gaze upon my ability to assemble a partial kit I bought from the sad remains of Blackout Effectors since I don't post enough build reports might as well orient and crop ...

from a DIY clone perspective ... the whetstone phaser is probably the most tweakable phaser that requires no parts matching or calibration ... really a dead simple build that gives great results.

sticking to just the DIY community output ... AMZ mini booster ROG Azabache Ed Guidry's BSIAB2 Escobedo's PWM fuzz Valve Wizard's engineer's thumb compressor Culturejam's shoot the moon tremolo DiabloChris's Sagan delay

some men just want to watch the world burn

carbon black ...

while probably not relevant to your interests at this point, it was easy to build on the carbon black pcb by just omitting the tone control

yeah they're rejiggering the pcb to not use the moltenvoltage chip

to be fair, if you're following their facebook page I believe they've got a workaround chip available in the shop

my top 3 fuzz (today) tonebender mkII superfuzz fuzz factory If I had to condense that down to a single project choice, it would be the fuzz factory. It's just so damn versatile.

from my amp building experience: avoid parallel runs of signal wire in close proximity, avoid running unshielded wire runs across the circuit board, if unshielded signal wire runs have to intersect, make sure they're as close to 90 degrees as possible ...

Never let it be said I didn't say thank you as quickly as I complained about wanting something ... THANK YOU FOR THE SCHEMA

cribbed from diysb but kept in a txt file so I don't have to remember it ... "Example #1 G+S - D = normal silicon diode Correct. This is the intrinsic body diode. Notice that in an N channel, the G+S must be positive with respect to the drain to get the diode to conduct. The anode is the source...

man ... rototron ... fairly excited about that one

I'd probably use a drill but then again I have small enough drillbits that I could put a hole in it and drive a hex key into it