Search results

Is there enough juice for a more interesting tonestack in there? Maybe a passive bmt?

Absolutely. His 5 part series on amp building was great, like a nice cup of tea for your mind.

I just looked at the 6 knob. I took the liberty of making a simplified version of the 6 knob for use in Illustrator. Had to save it as a PDF though as opposed to .ai per forum rules.

Hey man just an FYI there's a little wonky bit sticking out on the 6 knob. See there where the lines join in the top left. Also does Tayda print just strokes? If using Illustrator go to Object -> Path -> Outline stroke and it'll vectorise the whole stroke.

This guy is the Bob Ross of amp building:

I can save them as .ai files for you if that'd help the collection.

Looks fine to me. Getting everything from one place such as Tayda will save you money though. Paying 5 lots of shipping doesn't sound fun. Also, the tayda 125b boxes are predrilled for pedalpcb layouts.

Yep. What about at the other end? Output impedance and volume pots. Is that determined by the pot in the EQD example above? I've often wondered why 1 circuit will use a 10k pot and another a 100k. I get that sometimes that's because the pot is working as part of a filter with the output cap...

Do you have an "if in doubt" approach? We've all heard the "high impedance in, low impedance out" commandment many times. Is that a good rule to follow in most circumstances? Whack a 2.2m pull down on the input and job done sorta thing? Also, if you don't mind explaining candidly: what are the...

Can I interest you in some of this? https://www.elamscafeboutique.com/post/how-to-build-a-tube-amp-5-basics-you-must-relearn

No power filtering or pull down at the input sounds like fun. And hey here's a thing: sometimes you see the fuzz pot with a large value capacitor (10uf say) in parallel, or coming off pin 2 to gnd. How come this one doesn't need that? Also is a 22nf beefy enough as an input cap do you think?

They look like bat46 diodes except orange and black, but more rounded at the ends. No idea, I just checked the vf on a handful and they were all close.

Well, I just had 30 ebay '1n34a' diodes arrive. The vf is around .35v on all of them according to my DMM. They're smaller than the tayda ones, looking more like 4148s or something. But, they clip and they do the diode thing so that's fine by me.

Increasing the drive pot to 250k would add much more gain. Or you could increase r5 but that's also setting the lowest available gain and you'd need to goose it quite a bit from 1k to get an appreciable difference, but you could socket it and see how a 5.1k treats you. There's also a 1m...

Just mount it inside the enclosure. If the holes align you're all good.

Might need an adjustment of title since the Little Big Muff is already a thing: https://www.ehx.com/products/little-big-muff-pi/ Mig Buff?

Putting something like a 150pf cap over r21 and r7 would help a great deal. You could solder this cap to the legs of the 220k already in place there.

You could increase the value of the caps in the feedback loop parallel to the feedback resistor.

When I hand painted pedals I used this stuff: https://www.rustoleum.co.nz/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-plus/clear?ls=300343&lc=Gloss%20Clear Zero issues 5 years later.

Cavort: https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/parallel-resistance-calculator/