Search results

Yeah it's a big improvement. There's some issues with muddiness and cab sims though, like it's easy to get bass but not so easy to get a reliable, true-to-life high end without boosting the crap out of the high end in an EQ curve, but I guess a speaker and amp takes care of a lot of that in...

update: I plugged my pedalboard into my daw, opened reaper, played. Sounds like balls. Opened GR5, added the cab simulator. Sounds awesome. I'm kicking myself it was that easy all along and feel like a caveman seeing an astronaut. Thanks guys. For the record I'm using the Control Room pro...

Oh gotcha. Like an amp sim vst? I do have guitar rig 5 which has a plethora of stuff and the Lancaster IR pack from Glenn Fricker. So to be clear, there's no need for anything extra 'out front' as it were, like a di box etc?

I've got an audient id14, I've got a bunch of pedals that's need demos. When I put a fuzz pedal in front of the interface in the daw and record it sounds like shit, fizzy and flat, which is obviously the opposite of what we're looking for. Even with the gain on the interface at zero it's...

That looks a lot like a slightly modded son of screamer circuit.

If you made the 100k between the Bass and treble (r9) controls into a vr, would that work as a mids shift control?

I bet they can't wait for the boneyard version.

In basic terms, the first repeat is boosted causing the chip to distort. The green led clips this signal and stops it distorting by providing a ceiling of sorts.

Nice. That's much easier. Cheers torg.

Just curious. Are they already connected or do they need a blob of solder in there?

Get the datasheet of tayda. Make a canvas in your art program to the printable dimensions -117 x 62mm for a 125b I think. Drag the datasheet on this canvas. Center to artboard. There's your drill template. Arrange artwork, type, mockups etc. Hide datasheet layer. Done.

Haha, glad you remembered :) I do have an active member. For me it's the SHO. Simple and wonderfully effective. Or the LBP1. Just a few components , whack it after a tone stack for some recovery, stack it 2 or 3 times over for a beasty drive pedal, use one in a dual pedal for an optional...

Somehow I have some in a parts drawer. How can I implement them in pedal builds? Do they take the place of the wire running from +9 to the board 9v pin?

I've literally never done this and have never had a problem related to it.

Look at Rat mods since the 1981 is a modded rat. From a brief search it looks like people are swapping the rats input cap to a 10uf and putting the output cap on a switch between stock and a bigger value, around 2.2uf.

Well, I could easily add a 1m to ground at the output if that's the solution. Your dpdt with the switch at lug 2 sounded great, but you didn't seem 100% it would be the solution in this application. A 3pdt has it's own problems, and it's own benefits. 100% don't want popping though...

This is what I've drawn out. All '1' lugs are for vol 2, all '3' lugs are vol 1. Overthinking it maybe.

The 3pdt solution does seem to be the safest as there's some speculation around switching the outputs and having conjoined inputs. I wonder what pedalpcb meant about it being circuit dependant.

Ohh yeah, switching the outputs rather than the inputs. Clever thinking. It's a distortion circuit using 2 x tl072, then a 3 band active tone stack. The volume pots immediately follow the coupling cap after the tone stack. Not sure if they changes anything but it's nothing too insane, has a...

Sorry dude I was editing the post when you replied to make it a bit clearer :)