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After you have cleaned the Board & looked for any bridges or bad joints, Here is a Continuity Test you can do, No Power connected. Matching colours should show continuity:

I'll be straight up & tell you, you have to clean that PCB before going any further! Bend the Pots up and Clean & then I review again.

3 pages in & no pictures of the PCB & Components, this needs another set of eyes!

What brand of Electro Caps are you using?

Have you heard the saying '' When in doubt, give it a clout'' meaning have you tried tapping the pedal firmly on the floor to see if it gets worse or better?, keep you Amp volume low as it may Bang quite loud if there is a stray joint!

Have you gone over every solder joint on the back of the PCB to make sure no stray joints or debris is present? Another spot is under sockets on the component side???

Are you saying the pedal has stopped working now?

Watch out for the pinout on the 2222 series:

Something like this:

This has plenty of Volume unlike standard bluesbreaker type pedal builds.

My eyes are telling me both are wrong!

This has been finished for ages, I did a tutorial on it here, I have it permanently on my 5w Wangs & 12'' Creamback Cab setup in my computer room It still has Battery option & Boss Led holder & is True Bypass:

Some plastic welding maybe required! :)

Try celebrating after it fires up, not while building it! ;)

The only thing I changed was the B50K Volume pot by design for A50K pot, unity was at 9.00 O'clock if 7 is fully C.C.W!!! It is more user friendly now at 12.00 O'clock! Cool Pedal & Great layout!

Not all Irons are created equal!!! This one has all the features but is very akward to to get into tight spaces! ;)

Gate & Source twisted together = Anode Drain = Cathode, Forward Voltage is 0.62v You will know if you stuff it up, Drain & Gate twisted together with give you around 3 volts!

This is a Great Sounding Pedal, I had built the Aion version back in 2017 in the standard layout they use to have. I wanted to build a Pedal PCB version so here it is. At the same time as I was building it, Wampler just released his version with a Twist. So being it is a Mosfet based OpAmp...

I always use Machined sockets on all my builds for Op Amps. I try to buy from reputable sources but recently I got fake JRC4558D's. I knew it as soon as they arrived but it would be a Pain if they were soldered in!

The Belton Brick uses multiple PT2399's I believe but their main purpose is for doing Reverb!???