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Probably something by this guy: https://www.pcbway.com/project/member/?bmbno=19C5FC6C-66B1-46 Edit: Looks like the Catalinbread RAH. https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Catalinbread_RAH_19691b12.html

Turned out fine! A little rough around the edges but it doesn't bother me. I'm happy.

Crafty! Unfortunately, I'm a lazy bum so I'd rather go the pre-made route :D I ordered some of the LMR100 suggested above. We'll see how workable it is.

C5 in combination with the source resistor R8 is about both gain and frequency response. At 10-22uF, it's almost a full-range boost. At 1uF, bass will be rolled off while the upper mids and above still get the full amount of boost. 10nF is too small to do anything useful and would indeed just...

I'll check it out, thanks! That's stranded though, isn't it?

So far, I've been using RG174 for shielded I/O wiring when required, but would be interested in a solid core alternative. I generally like the RG174, but don't trust the solder joints to withstand more than one or two reboxings of an effect. It always feels like it's about to snap at any moment...

It's a feel thing.

Thanks, man!

Demo added. I like this one best for high distortion doomy/sludgy tones, so that's what the video focuses on. I'm finding this one a little hard to dial in, even though the tone controls have a very wide range. The Beta Lead tone stack is easier to work with for both bass and guitar in my opinion.

As a righty, I'd put the fine controls on the right for easier access.

I thought maybe you were comparing the preamp out on the clone to the power amp out on the original, but if that's not it I'd suggest opening up the pedal and confirming parts values. Could also be that the trace of the original pedal simply isn't accurate. I'm not sure if Robert did his own...

I'm only seeing two 1/4" jacks, but the pedal should have three. Is your output jack connected to the guitar or power amp output pad? The guitar output has additional filtering (lower volume and a substantial low pass filter).

Aion FX has some boards with power ground pads that are connected directly to the DC jack, but if you look at the wiring diagram of the Redshift, it seems like no additional wiring is necessary, so the different grounds are already connected on the board. Ground connections eventually have to...

I just checked, it's 5x5mm minimum size, so that'll work. I'll just give it a try and see how they turn out :)

I'm just starting to get into DipTrace and created this JFET adapter board. Can I just export this as gerber + NC drill, upload to JLCPCB and be done with it? It's literally just a board outline, pads and traces. It looks fine in the gerber viewer. Are the rounded corners going to be an issue?

If we're talking about C1, that's a coupling capacitor, not a decoupling capacitor. It blocks DC while allowing AC signals to pass. A decoupling capacitor would be connected in parallel to ground, and for example be used to filter out high frequencies or stabilize voltages in the power supply...

That looks better. You can use the pathfinder tool to expand the compound shapes with the text cut outs, then click "minus front" to permanently cut out the shapes from the background.

I'd recommend it simply because it takes the enclosure colour and texture out of the equation. It may be fine in this particular case, but as you said, it won't hurt.

That's not going to work. You need to create outlines for all the fonts, i. e. convert them to shapes. The white layer can only contain the color RDG_WHITE from the Roland swatch provided here: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/datasheets/UVprinting/RolandVersaWorks.ai There can't be any white in...

Fair enough! Something like the McPherson Anti Buffer/AMZ Pickup Simulator can be used to "unbuffer" a signal, but that would be yet another pedal on the board. @MichaelW did a build report of one those a while back (https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/the-anti-buffer-pedal.24804).