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as per this guide: https://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/s/boss-bf2-flanger.php 1.) Clock frequency adjustment: Set MANUAL and DEPTH knobs to full counterclockwise. Connect an oscilloscope to TP-1 test point. Adjust VR7 for T=25us (40kHz). Rotate the MANUAL knob fully clockwise. T should be...

holy crap - so as it turns out, I have installed the wrong regulator for the Basic Relay Bypass board. autopiloted and put a 78L05 in there. it’s supposed to have 78L09. i had no idea what i’d done cos it just worked. still does. it only occurred to me just earlier when i was gathering parts to...

crikey. tidy 👌🏻

cheers 🤟🏻 definitely a winner for bass crikey, didn’t even think to try guitar

the short story behind why this pedal was built involves the bass player of my band finally letting go of his helix stomp and agreeing to try/use another analog bass driver/distortion. he’s already got a sansamp bass driver, but apparently that’s not quite doing it for him, so i suggested this...

cheers 🤟🏻 well, glad i’m not the only one. not the most practical, but had to do it.

since this has had some serious hype, i was thoroughly compelled to build and hear this delay. my last analog delay was the Lectric FX DC ECHO, and while that thing is heckin marvelous and fun to play, it's a friggin huge 1590XX and has a lot of knobs, so there's a lot of appeal with this 125B...

nothing wrong with calling a spade a spade

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/byzantium-flanger-boss-bf-2.13483/

there was also a time when the divide between the asset class, and the have-nots depending on their next paycheck, wasn't so massive. many are not so fortunate to be as insulated against the radical changes and escalating costs as some of us may be. when it gets to a point where these things...

i've never understood why anyone would ever want use ribbon cables in a pedal build. (except mass production to save time/money) weak, flimsy, brittle pieces of shit. they're fugly as hell. and then if you lose continuity in a single conductor, you'd have to replace the whole thing. instead of...

just solder them direct to the board. they can take it. ⬇️ - use an electronic relay bypass instead of mechanical 3PDT - these bastards can 'mis-switch' when hitting it badly on the fly and then goes into some fucked position where it's neither bypass or active, and just makes a loud hum...

https://www.barberelectronics.com/gain_changer-d8z5c OD-1 based. keen to try.

well, it is a ghost echo.... so i had to go with a white theme 👻 yeah that makes sense. i guess when you're used to pristine plugins/rack gear, the jankyness of inferior devices is probably not that welcome.

thanks man 🤟🏻 i don’t really get the negative experience about belton bricks, yeah its no FV1 or DSP, but still makes a lot of fun and useable sounds, for me at least. maybe i just haven’t done enough FV-1… (still earnestly awaiting the arrival of the -in progress- Dispatch Master PCB)

ohh hell yeah cheers 🤙🏻 R4 is 10K per schematic/pcb. fuzzdog doc suggests trying 18K, so i’ve just gone and done that. yep, much better. volume is pretty much at unity.

so this reverb/delay circuit features a BTDR-2H belton brick + PT2399, and that sounded like a pretty good time to me, so i had to give it a try. turns out it’s actually a real treat to play. and with only 3-knobs [mix(depth), dwell, pre-delay/attack] it’s one of those things you can just...

idk but while trying to figure what this switch circuit is supposed to be doing, all i can hear is this song brilliant switching design tho, i'm definitely gonna have to come back here for it.

ayy thanks 🤟🏻 ah yeah true, i probably should’ve paid closer attention to that. that noise control is really handy too, cos it’s nice to have it up for cleans, and then turned down for fuzz/distortion.