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Hay all, just wanted to give an update and in case anyone comes across this in the future. Got the hisss to clear up buy going straight from bass to pedal to amp so must be some thing in my chain that its picking up. As far as the volume drop goes, turns out it was a massive low end cut. So go...

Nice build, and agreed this was a no brainer. Was planning to something similar with leds for eyes, but was going to use the clippers instead of the status ones.

LOL I had to relocate it as there wasn't room under the I/O board.

Thanks for the replies, set this aside for the holidays. Not sure why I was thinking turning the pedal off killed the power. Just to clarify, yes on power up takes a sec to warm up but then acts normal. Think the biggest issue is with the volume turned up all the way it is still cutting volume...

Power supply is a 2000ma dedicated, the bassman is an always on, but I will click it off and on from time to as I am checking things, tubes are probably just still warm but I will double check. Any guess as to what the BT draws?

Just finished up the build and before I post in the trouble shooting section I figured I would ask a few questions here since Im very new to tube based pedals. First, it takes a few seconds for the pedal to turn on, is that normal? The bassman build I did seems to turn on instantly but my...

An audio probe is a really handy tool for things like this, good luck 👍

Looks like your trim pot is turned all the way down, Try setting it at noon and make small adjustments up and down. I like to "see" what Im adjusting so if you want you can set VREF with a meter. On mine pins 1-3 and 5-7 are set right around 6v, pin 4 is ground so 0, and pin 8 is source voltage.

Just wanted to say this has been a fantastic build. I ended up leaving the bright cap out and I absolutely love the sound. I just fool around in the basement so the darker tone is fine, in a band setting might get a bit muddy though so I can totally see leaving it in and adjusting as needed...

That was the issue, bad trace between pin 2 of R100 and pin 1 of R101. Thanks for all the help 👍

The plot thickens. So I removed R101 and the rate LED came on. Thinking that's odd I ran some jumper wires to a 1M pot and I can get the LFO working at about 500K. It still sounds a bit off and when I flip the switch it stops working and gets really distorted. Should have wrote down what...

I reflowed both 100, and 101 to no avail. For what its worth I tested both resistors and got ~10k across each and ~20k across both. Shouldn't I be getting VREF_B at pin 2 and 5 even when the chip is pulled? Here is a pic of the back, so much for the lint free cloth lol

Thanks for the ideas, definitely something off with VREF_B. Without the IC in I get the following: 1-.7mv 2-1mv 3-.7mv 4-1.1mv 5-1mv 6-.7mv 7-.7mv 8-8.89v checking R100, and R101 I get 8.87v on both sides of R100 and .672v on one side of R101 and 0 on the other. Also getting 8.86v on the + side...

Super excided to get this build started, but while I wait for everything to arrive figured I would ask some pre-build questions. Since this is my first tube build is there anything I should be mindful of with this type of build, or is it pretty much like any other pedal build? Is there any...

Yes, hard to tell from that pic. Heres a better one. Ive already replaced it and had the exact same voltage readings. Also I did change D1 and D2 to 2.2u caps and swapped C17 to a 12N.

Yeah, blend pot has a cap on it. Oh and all voltages are rock steady, so nothing is oscillating.

I kind of messed up and wasn't paying attention when I ordered some electro caps and got some 6.3V ones. Should I just toss these or any reason to keep them?

Got everything put together and the good news is I get signal passing through the pedal when engaged, bad news no rate LED and no noticeable effect. I can kinda hear something when turning the pots up and down, but its pretty much nothing. I think there is an issue with IC1 as its voltages are...

You could try something like this https://www.harfington.com/products/p-1056064

The 2 LEDs in blue are going to be your rate and bypass leds. These are the ones that are on the drill template. The 2 in red are for making a sine wave and do not stick through the enclosure. People replace those 2 with caps to smooth out the single a bit to help create a better sine wave.