Search results

XL or NYXL 11's for me. Anything less than 11s feels like mush after 10 years of using them. Also, a 3mm pick :)

That's right - cover up the drilled holes from the inside. Let the Envirotex drip through when poured, then remove the tape afterward. You do have to elevate the enclosure a bit.

One trick I found with the Envirotex: cover the inside with painters tape, then cut out the holes with an Xacto knife before pouring. When it's cured, just remove the tape along with the excess drip. No need to re-drill :) You might have to bore the holes slightly with the knife but that only...

I like that you took advantage of the smd JFETs! Even though I still have a bunch of TH I'm mostly doing SMD in my own builds now. Looks great.

Vacation in Rehoboth a couple weeks ago. Haven't been to the beach in 30 years. I had the absolute best time!

Correct. The Glasshole has an expression jack that is used to connect to the Tappy or Wavelord. It disconnects the Glasshole LFO and the LED is then driven by the TAPLFO. That project ended up being the basis for the Parallax pedal I did for Function F(x). But, in that case it uses two LFOs to...

I actually did build a version of the Glasshole with the TAPLFO2 directly integrated a few years ago. Some waveshapes weren't that useful but a few sounded very cool. Esp. the weirder ones.

Well, this is friggin' insane.

I have a spreadsheet with the formula that calculates the voltage output based on the resistor values. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1neuU8KQd5lBWkOdhPvRF7bF4rulpYA33kbP55BXTvlU/edit?usp=drivesdk

Your DC output on pins 14/15 should be reading between 5.5v-6v. Something is wonky with the two 33k resistors, or the 10uF at their junction, I think.

Wavelord

The reason I don't know any of this is because I'm still using 10 year old software, haha. I'm old.

The problem I had with the Tayda ones were that the screw threading was wrong. Tighten them up and they would jut release. I threw them all out.

There was a port of the mbp v3 library to Diptrace a while back and I think some folks have had success with it. I will be releasing v4 this year so I'll see about asking someone to do a new port. I'm just stuck on Eagle for the foreseeable future. BTW: Try out 4 layer design when you get...

One thing I forgot to mention, and you probably already know, is that surface prep is like 50% of the battle. If you are transferring to an enclosure or copper clad, proper cross-hatch sanding and clean up with Acetone makes a big difference irrespective of whatever printer or toner transfer...

Press n Peel Blue + Brother printer on thick paper setting + iron has served me well for years and years. But, always expect to fill in some areas with a bit of black sharpie. I did use a laminator at one point for transfers but it was too much work.

Well I was gonna suggest flamethrower...

Use a jewler's flathead screwdriver and hammer in a cross shape. Then unscrew! Or, drill it out maybe.

Polarization is not an issue. The reason for the pop in this application is the presence of DC on the switch contacts. The caps you are switching between have no DC, but the common contact (IOW, middle lug) may have DC depending on what's happening in the circuit before the switch. One way to...

Oh yeah, I remember you mentioning a podcast before. How does one acquire such entertainment? Here is a cool pic. My dad bought this Rambler a couple months before he passed. It was offered to me but I decided to let it go to someone who appreciates classic cars. It ended up going to a collector.