Search results

I haven't built it but I am familiar with the circuit. Using a 25kA pot might give slightly more fine control in that area, but probably not as much as you want. So, instead, I would suggest limiting the range of the control like you are suggesting. Switch to a 10kA pot, and it should be wired...

Cool! -Edit - I keep mixing things up (deleted what I had here originally). Here's the actual correct info: For MN320x BBD chips, VGG should be set at 14/15 the value of the supply. So, if it's 9v, then Vgg is 8.4v. Supply limit is 9v on MN320x chips. So, 8.1v is correct for your 8.7v supply...

One extra thing: your supply voltage is on pin5 and you are reading 8.7v there, not 9. You want your Vgg voltage on pin4 to be about 0.6v lower than the supply for the MN3207. In that case, you may want to make R10 either 8k2 or 10k instead of 6k8. Or, just socket that resistor and use the value...

There's no proper Vgg voltage on pin 4, and for an MN3207 it should be around +8.4v, not 45mv (when using a 9v supply). The designer didn't include everything needed for the MN3207 to work correctly. Here's how to fix it: Make R10 a 6.8k resistor. Solder one end of a jumper wire to pin3 of the...

Wut the ever.loving.fark. Wow! So killer.

I'm trying to follow the idea here. Wouldn't a second bypass footswitch for the octave (with a bi-color or two LEDs) pretty much accomplish the same thing? You could even control it with your feetsees. Or, am I misunderstanding the goal?

I'm actually happy to hear you didn't hate the Wetbar, haha. Easily one of the worst selling projects I've done. But, I rather liked it with the couple mod ideas I came up with. Reminds me, I'm gonna repost the pics I took when I completely destroyed my Blackstone pedal from when I traced it...

The difference between precision, high fidelity op-amps and basic jFet/BJT input run of the mill amplifiers is bragging rights. Maybe I'm getting crusty but fidelity in guitar pedals might be a bit overated!

Yeah, if @Robert does contract work he could be the guy. I mean, unless he's too busy policing all the degeneracy in the "It's All In Good Fun" thread! What kind of circuit are you working on?

Why not just ask here? You've got some talented folks on this forum that can do very good design work, I bet! I'm also sometimes available for contract PCB design work, but maybe not this month.

This is at odds with I've always heard. Namely, schematics are copyrighted as an image (not as a circuit design) and protected by copyright laws. Redrawing schematics is completely permissible and that redraw becomes a copyright of the drawer. And, best to avoid making it a 100% perfect copy.

Here's what I use: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832768103991.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.385e38daVSJouQ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

You can get 2 point 2.54mm connectors cheap off AliExpress. I'll find the link for the ones I bought. They work perfectly.

I generally prefer the right angle 9mm pots because they are a very secure mount, but they make 1590B layouts more challenging than 16mm. There is less useable real estate with 9mm. With 16mm there are only 3 contact points. With 9mm there are 5 plus the 2 external standoff tabs to work around.

I had this exact same problem last year. After eliminating all possible problems with power, ground, switches, etc. it turned out that particular batch of blue LEDs I bought were the issue (I was able to reproduce the problem another way). IIRC, jimilee had the same issue with a different set...

R251 is definitely a problem. Second pic at the bottom of the circular cutout.

I use a Hakko kit and a small pointy tip. When the tip bends out of shape, I replace it. Maybe once every year or two. If you use a bulkier tip you may never have to replace it unless you start to lose surface area or get imperfections on the tip edge. As mentioned, a light sanding with 400-600...

You can even do it with a DPDT. If your pot is a voltage divider, use two pots of twice the value and swap the wipers. So, say you have a 100kA volume pot. Parallel lugs 3 and 1 of two 200kA (or 250kA) pots and use 1/2 of the switch for the wipers. If your pot is wired as a variable resistor...

Yes, you can put the resistor either b/w the neg side of the 22uF and lug 3 of the Fuzz pot or between lug2 of that pot and ground. This dials back the max fuzz setting just a bit in case noise gets to be too much. The controls from the Fuzz Factory don't port well to this design since is quite...

You can ask one of the designer's of this effect...which is me! This is a Function F(x) Clusterfuzz (Jr version). Actually, this design was mostly Forrest but I'm not above taking undeserved credit. Anyway, If you want to eliminate some noise at the max settings, increase the 10pF to 47pF and...