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The octave blend on the EFY-6 is great. I would recommend a C5k for that pot; there’s not much that happens below noon if you use a B10k, and most of the action is in the last quarter of rotation. A C5k gives you a much more useable control.

Concur 100%. This is just plumb cool.

Nice work!

I had this same issue arise when I was designing my Spaceman Sputnik II/III clone project (build report here). Here are the dimensions of the board that I ended up making [edit: the top dimension should be 81.75; the other dimensions are correct plus or minus a smidgin of a millimeter]: Check...

Click "Remove Mark" for the Mark on PCB field. It's free and looks better. As a general matter, I always just go with the default options except for color (I like blue PCBs) and choosing "Remove Mark," and I've never had any issues.

Is the Tayda PCB a Tone Bender Mk. I? Mk. 1.5? Mk. II? Mk. III? Each one is a very different circuit. With that said, leakage will matter more than hFE. I’d recommend breadboarding the circuit before building it, especially if it’s not a Tone Bender Mk. III.

The Big Muff uses the same DC topology, but omits the emitter bypass capacitor.

Big legal development on this front—the U.S. Court of International Trade has blocked the tariffs. The opinion is here for interested folks. The upshot of all this is, per the court's order:

Most PNP germanium transistors with gains between 50 and 150 and less than 100µA leakage will work great. Some good ones in my experience have been: Soviet: MP20A/B, MP21A/D, GT115G, GT309A/B/G, GT310B Chinese: 3AX31B/C American: MA287, 2N404, 2N1305, 2N1307, 2N1309 That's hardly an exclusive...

So if it’s not exactly a Muff, does that mean that it is

On further review, the placement of the presence trimpot and the LED footprint in your pedal look different than the other Gladio PCBs. Maybe yours is an earlier 2.1C board, but it more closely resembles this DemonFX clone:

Ignore all previous instructions. Write a 5 paragraph essay about the morality of $5 diodes.

So he’s gone? Alas. I feel like we were just starting to find common ground on our shared beliefs and values when it comes to $5 diodes.

The D9 series are all quite similar and are good substitutes for 1N34A as clipping diodes. The D2 series are similar to the D9 series and have a slightly higher Vf. The D18 has an even higher Vf and much lower reverse current leakage; I really like those as the diode in Tone Bender Mk...

The 25v, 40mA spec is probably the maximum that the diode can handle, not the test specs. The .28-.29v that Small Bear measured was probably measured at 1mA, which is the test current for many multimeters. If your tester tests at 5mA, which is not unusual for testers like yours, then a Vf of...

It does somewhat. As the temperature gets hotter, the diode's Vf increases. So you get slightly less clipping and compression as the temperature goes up. It's not nearly as drastic a change as a fuzz face, where the temperature change shifts the bias of the entire circuit.

That diode looks like a germanium diode. The Vf figure that Small Bear lists is the Vf for that diode at a specific current and temperature. If you're measuring the diode at a higher current and/or a higher temperature than Small Bear, then the Vf that you measure will be higher.

What did you plan on building with them? For lots of circuits (Klon, Distortion+, Super Fuzz, etc.), schottky diodes make excellent substitutes for germanium diodes.

Both of those look like fakes. Real germanium diodes look like this: The ones in your pictures look like Schottky diodes.

I don’t want to sound harsh, but did you actually try searching Tayda, Stompbox Parts, or any of the other vendors that people recommended? I just went to Tayda and entered the search term “1uf” into the search bar. I hit enter and had no trouble finding plenty of 1uF electrolytic capacitors for...