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The layout is my design. This is the third iteration of the hardware, and version 5 of the code. It started off as a derivative of the MAS Effects relay bypass system. Over time I've made some changes to reduce power consumption and to let boards "talk" to each other so that additional...

Good eye, that's exactly what I did. I'd originally designed the PCB for a planned enclosure with the holes for the bottom pots directly under the Level and Fuzz pots, but realized that it looked better if I moved the pots towards the center of the enclosure.

Blue > Yellow > Red. But all of them look really good to my eyes.

Bottom line up front—this thing is seriously awesome. For those not in the know, it's a modified fuzz face that uses an op amp servo circuit to keep the bias stabilized at a wide range of temperatures. So having said the most important part, on to the build. I went slightly premium on this...

Dylan159 over at Free Stompboxes put together three interesting all transistor overdrive circuits.

I do. I just DMed you with details.

What a cool build!

Are you measuring those voltages against ground, @yazooligan? Or are you measuring the voltages between the transistor terminals? If you aren't doing so already, I'd recommend connecting one probe to ground/the positive battery terminal and using the other probe to check the voltage at each...

The BOM (including package sizes) is here: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/1590a-tone-generator.22400/

I have no idea what this is, but the layout is beyond cool, so put me down for one. If it’s a ring modulator or YATS, so be it.

They're for grounding the input and output jacks. In this build, the jacks are grounded to the I/O PCB, so they don't need separate individual connections to the main PCB. But you should probably ask that question in a new, separate thread, rather than hijacking @The Gator's excellent build report.

I’ve used 309s with hFEs in the 160-180 range in several builds (Trumpet fuzz, high gain fuzz face), and they sound great. The 700 ones sound suspicious, but @jwin615 is right, you should try them socketed or on a breadboard before tossing them in the diode bin.

The collector and bass voltages are the same? That should not be the case. and what units are those? You should be getting around 3.2v on the collector and 1.5v on the base of Q4/5.

A few questions: Do you have a multimeter? If you, what are the voltage readings on the collector and base of Q4 and Q5? Have you tried adjusting the trim pot to get them roughly equal? And are the germanium diodes facing opposite directions?

What about using half of a DPDT instead of a single SPDT? I’ve done that before to maintain symmetry and it’s worked well.

At the risk of being overly blunt, that isn’t a very good question. The War Scythe and Fuzz Foundry are very different pedals with very different use cases. The War Scythe is a 3-in-1 multi-effect pedal, consisting of a modified Tone Bender Mk. III (a distortion-like fuzz), a Green Ringer (an...

It’s subtle, but I like the 308 better. It sounds less harsh and feels more spongy, for lack of a better term, especially with higher output pickups. I didn’t do a precise before/after, though, so it’s possible that I’m hearing things. Either way, though, this Rat’s going to be a daily driver...

Just replaced the OP07 in my Rat with a metal can LM308 that @Barry generously sent to me.

As always, this looks really cool. Couple questions—is that a CMOS-based relay bypass? And are you planning on using a Cliff EMI washer on both jacks?

Man, that is one clean build. Love it.