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Not the prettiest, but by golly, it works! And it already paid for itself! I pretty much followed the Tagboard Effects layout. https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/09/test-box-20.html The only exception is I added some protection in the form of a Polyfuse, 1N4001, and 100u capacitor. If...

So again, the audio probe came in handy! Turns out there was more than one area with an issue. There was a break between C4 and R4, and another break between C9 and the drain of Q3. Soldered in jumper wires for both and voila! It's fixed. What a journey. The biggest lesson I learned is HAVE...

Update: I finally got the test box built and it works great. I replaced all the J201s and socketed them for easy replacement if needed. However, the audio probe is pointing me towards R4 as the current culprit. The sound is amplified by Q1 all the way through C4, then R4 doesn't get signal, C5...

Not me buying 5 more PCBs when I already have 8 on deck.

That art is GORGEOUS. Can you share your method for printing? I currently use clear waterslide decals, but struggle printing gold or on anything other than a white enclosure.

Thank you both! It’s the Matte White Sand Texture from Tayda. First time using sockets, so I definitely appreciate the tip on soldering the transistors in.

Built a Scarab Deluxe clone for a friend and I’m proud of how it turned out. Cleanest build of mine to date. First time making a pedal intended for someone else as well.

Thanks for the response. Was hoping to hear from you as your project came up when I was researching. I apologize for the confusing schematic. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the purpose of each part protecting the power supply is: Reverse polarity: Protects the circuit from incorrect...

Hello, I ordered some parts to put together a Test Box using this page. https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/09/test-box-20.html The wiring is a bit confusing so I put it into a schematic. Does this look accurate? I'm new to KiCad so I apologize if it isn't easily readable. I also added a...

Thanks for the reply Lytt. Running a test on desoldered JFETs Q2 and Q3 yielded the following results, in no particular order, mainly because I forgot which one was which: .022v Idss side (0.22 mA) .435v Vp side (-.435 Vp) .034v Idss side (0.34 mA) .539v Vp side (-.539 Vp) Seems to be in...

Thanks for the further insight. At this point I’ve desoldered a couple of them from the PCB and I am rigging up a JFET tester (https://www.runoffgroove.com/fetzervalve.html) to try and see what else I can find out before I move on to the next possibility. If they’re dead that makes this an easy fix.

Thanks for the reply. I’m using presoldered SMD J201s from PedalPCB soldered in with electrolytic leg clippings. I will probably be using sockets on new builds, though! I don’t have an audio probe but I’ll try rigging one up.

Blah. Unfortunately, even with the grounding issue fixed, it’s still extremely quiet. Could the J201s be bad?

Update for those of the future researching a weak output signal: Found a short. The output wire is grounding out. I think it's at the footswitch based on my multimeter. May be some solder connecting lugs 5, 7, and maybe 8 underneath the breakout board. Will update when I can get it undone. That...

Question, can Trimmer 3B go to 0V? I can't turn it below 1.43v. I reflowed all of the ground joints and that was the new minimum. I'm also attempting to use Gemini with a wary eye on the side trying to solve this.

Hello, I'm having some trouble with my taqueria build. When the pedal is engaged, the signal is very weak. With all 3 knobs turned up to the max, the signal is barely at unity gain. All 3 knobs are reactive, though. At 50%, the signal is extremely weak, very much a cut. What are some causes of...

I originally built this pedal (Build #2) before I knew about the C10 mod, thread linked here. I thought, “Oh C10 was originally included with the Benson Preamp, I want it!” without even thinking about what it did in the circuit. Man the pedal runs hot with it in! I like it in certain contexts...

It would be awesome to do option B1 at a later time, but I think I’d rather have one LED to indicate on/off and gain settings for this one. From what I’m understanding and the very basic breadboarding I just did, I need resisted power going to the middle lug from the anode pad, and the cathode...

Thanks so much for the response. Question regarding the last part about an always on indicator. Are you saying I’d add a second LED, one indicating if the switch is in bypass or not and another for the gain toggle tied directly to + and - (with a CLR)? And just to clarify, the 3PDT Breakout...

Hello all, I have what is hopefully a quick question. I am building the Taqueria Overdrive, and I am modding the gain toggle to use an RGB LED with a DPDT Footswitch (Blue for normal, Red for High Gain) I got the idea from Reddit, but it seems the user made it more complicated than it needs to...