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Check your traces at each of the ICs' pins. Those kind of sockets aren't the best

I have an older version of this one. It works good. Try to buy it with a coupon

Many designs I've seen have a 100uf electrolytic cap placed from the pos rail to ground. Is this called a filter cap or a bypass cap? (Trying to clarify terminology) Sometimes there is also a 100nf film or MLCC in parallel with the 100uf, and sometimes the electrolytic value is smaller, like...

The popping when you turn it on or off means DC is making its way into the audio path somewhere. Try touching the wires going to the switch daughterboard and see if you can get any of them to make noise. Try turning the pedal on and off while putting pressure on them in different ways to see if...

That's a nice consideration. I built two Paupers over the summer, the first of which I drilled to line up with the board allocations for pots/switch. Then I realized I couldn't fit three big MXR knobs so I had to use a small one for the tone control (pour one out). On the second build I bent the...

Here we go, another MLCC vs electrolytic thread it doesn't really matter. Use a film if you have it

It's never really an issue. Just make sure you're using a step bit with small increments for small holes, and one with larger increments for larger holes. You can also make sure the hole in the center of the table is in line with the drill bit

You want to use 33nF, not uF, and it doesn't really make a big difference. There might be a slight change in bass response, but nothing that would alter the character of the pedal

I took off the depth stop so the press will work better with step bits, as the drilling surface of these is longer than a standard bit. I wrap my enclosures in painters tape so the shavings don't damage the finish and then I hold it with a firm grip. A vise isn't really necessary, but Erik's...

I have a $50 harbor freight drill press. It works fine. I removed the depth stop. It's much easier to be accurate with a drill press than a hand drill - I wouldn't want to build pedals without one

I have one of these too and it's great for getting that AC/DC sound from Back in Black, or the Live album. How do you set the level and boost controls? One is a pot at the beginning of the circuit and the other is a pot after. I'm unsure how to use them.. like what's the point of the pot at the...

Use your meter on continuity mode to trace the path from the 9v + pad through the components of the LED path, to the switch, and to ground. Somewhere along the way there's a break. Find it and repair it

You might consider the Photon Vibe instead. Compared to the Electro Vibe, it has more throb and a treble and bass control while using the same incandescent light bulb LFO driver. The original circuit is nice, but thinner sounding than the Photon Vibe

I built a duocast and felt the same thing - it was okay but not my thing. I used a GT402 for the Ge transistor. It sold pretty quickly on reverb though

The build doc mentions what type of LED to use for LED4

The back of your tone pot is contacting the circuit board and should be insulated with one of those plastic dust caps - electrical tape isn't enough Lots of messy soldering but it looks like it should function - just pull up the tone pot away from the board and test again

My current favorite is the Mad Professor Amber Overdrive, available here as the Resinite OD. Oddly, it's a big muff circuit but sounds like a cranked Marshall Superlead. I wind back both the gain and volume to about 9 o'clock to get a warm and saturated tone with wonderful note definition and...

That will probably work better as I'm near the 300 pin limit on this project How do you mitigate mistakes without being able to run verification?

How do you make a project across two boards? Like the Byzantium Flanger for example. I have a feeling on how to do it: Make schem, then convert to layout. Experiment with layout and figure out the best place to separate the layout and set up headers. Then go back into schematic drawing, insert...