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Not sure what killed the 2N7000 but it is working since being replaced, ESD sounds like a possible culprit being in the carpeted basement during the winter. I'm going to try it again with the charge pump later since it's only 4 solder joints to use. Thaks for all the help.

I replaced the 2n7000 with a new one and also removed the power pump since I am using a passive bass and maybe don't need the extra head room. Could the 18v have killed the 2n7000?

So far I prefer the 12n as it keep the low end intact for my bass, I haven't tried it on guitar yet.

Looking through my bag I only have some Jfets I don't have a replacement for the 2n7000. Is it possible I killed it using the charge pump pcb?

D10 is in the correct orientation, and that extra board on the bottom is the charge pump board knocking it up to 18V so it's still true bypass so that signal it good. The issue is just the effect.

I couldn't really tell so I replaced it any way but that didn't change much. not sure if this helps but if I bridge the cap and the pedal gets a signal its fades away slowly when i break the bridge.

So for voltages left to right according to the picture. Leg 1 15.72v Leg 2 7.52v Leg 3 15.74v The continuity around the area seems good other than jumping that capacitor,

Sorry for the bad pictures.

After about a year and half of good use my Lamb Chop just stopped working today.... I did some trouble shooting with an audio probe and the issue seems to be at C1 right in the begging. I have audio on the left side of the cap but not the right (based on picture below), if I bridge the...

I Couldn't find this so I figured I would add it. please tell me if I was wrong. I was on Aion Fx's site and came across the Azure chorus thinking it might be fun since it was based on the CE-2. In the instructions he mentions that between the CE-2 and CE-2b the only difference other than a...

Is it working?

I've had this issue recently, I don't see if there is a led already wired into the fuzz pcb, put one in. When I tested this I noticed I wasn't getting power the effect pcb. I was able to fix the problem by jumping the sw and gnd holed on the bottom and wiring them to one of the grounds on the...

That is awesome, simple and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

Morning, I've had this pedal for a few months now and have been really enjoying it and made some changes (Tone mod and 18V mod). the only thing that is bothering me is the "clean" mix knob. I know it's supposed to start to break up in its own way, but with my bass it seems to be breaking up...

Did you get the same LED and LDR that the build docs mention from Mouser? I have to say based on the number of posts/threads this is a bit of a finicky build lol.

If you look at my build I ended up omitting one of the expression jacks and moved the output jack over one cause it was drilled too tight. I answered in longer format in my post about the pedal but it's the up position for the moog filter sound.

From what I can tell the fd-1 is a nonmosfet fulldrive 2 with no boost in a smaller case. The minidrive is a fulldrive 2 mosfet with no boost in smaller case. We just have to hope it comes in stock soon lol.

I believe it's in the up position for two reasons. One the quack sounds more round in the up position to my ears and a little bit stiffer in down position. Also even though the docs don't mention it specifically there is a small section that talks about if you want to omit the switch all...

Should have added this, from what I was reading it should be 10k pot a or b? Going in lug 1, lug 2 is wired to lug 3 then lug 3 goes to a 1nf cap then wired to lug 1 of the blend?

I was looking at this pcb for a project idea. Is there a way to interject a low pass filter or just tone pot for the clean signal? So that it will only really mix back in clean bass? Would it be wired directly before the blend jack after c2?