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will do, first thing tomorrow. appreciate it!

Sadly, that is beyond my scope of fully understanding but I have the schematic printed out. I'm also populating another magnetron board. I think I went about 30+ PCB's without any problems and I hit this and my confidence gets shook. I really want to learn to read a schematic but don't know...

Also, with all my builds I allow a hefty gap between the pots and the board. In this case, the nubs of the pot lugs are sticking out only about 1mm above the pads before soldering. I like doing that for extra wiggle room if needed.

Yes to all 3 if you meant enclosure instead of board for 1 and 2 Interesting. I mean, I use a lighted optivisor and visually inspect and throughly clean PCB's before use. This one looked and still looks fine but it's worth a shot.

I have another Magnetron board. If at first you don't succeed... Round 2...FIGHT!

Ok. Yeah, it's weird. It either works just like my first mag delay out of the enclosure or it has those problems. when I handle the PCB while testing it makes it more noticable

touching a jumper between the ground point on the board and to all pots shafts and housing produces only one noticeable difference and it's to the gain pot. it produces what seems like RF.

Seems to read ok still, but note taken thanks! Visual inspection with lighted magnifying shows most pads with wire attached are clean joints and through holes filled but some are obscured by the insulation on one side. No stray wires. Will inspect those and redo if needed, thanks! On it! Much...

Dang, nope its back again. it's gotta be a grounding issue somewhere. it's so close to working. 24 awg stranded. not pre bonded

*edit* The following did not work. I think I solved it! Something was telling me that it was a grounding issue on the gain pot as it seemed the most noisy variable upon turning. Pinching it between my fingers would produce all kinds of grounding noises. Also, I was getting continuity between...

Not sure if it helps but The Dirty Sanchez pcb on the site has a drill template for 6 knobs and a toggle. The toggle is mounted on the side but I mounted it above the DC jack on the north side with all the in/outs.

I just noticed that the first relay bypass modules from last year aren't on the site anymore and that's what this is. Not sure that's an issue but I imagine it would be easier to troubleshoot without it. I should have tested before adding it.

Funny you mention it because I was very conscious of which one to solder because I wanted to omit the LFO indicator all together. Lo and behold, they are reversed on the build docs to what is actually on the board. 1 is the active/bypass indicator and 2 is the LFO. I thought I was going crazy...

Ok, here's some photos. Let me know if a clear shot is needed somewhere specific. Also, I omitted the LFO indicator LED because I didn't like it in the first one I built.

Here's the problem. When I test the board out of the enclosure I get two possible outcomes: a.) I only get one repeat turning the full range of feedback knob with self oscillation at the very end, the dry signal is quieter than the repeats, there is faint RF, and my overall guitar signal is...

Ok, so it's all together. Can confirm it works, almost. Somewhere between out of the enclosure and installed in the enclosure I'm getting some issue. I'll probably post to troubleshooting if I can't dubug it myself, which will most likely be the case. haha. There's gotta be something grounded...

Really glad it helped you guys. Beautiful stuff, Barry!

That is so rad! Definitely reppin the bde. haha

Flat side on the board is negative, yes. Every time I've used LED's the longer lead is the Anode(+) and the Shorter lead is the Cathode(-). Though recently, someone posted this which is straight confusing. haha.

Correct!