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Maybe that’d be a nice idea for a new pedalpcb utility board (pot->trimmer)

Oops my bad yeah the trimmit wouldn’t work for this exactly

Pedalpcb has a Trimmit board for this exact purpose ($0.50). I’ve also made similar board out of stripboard.

For reference, from any of the pedalpcb build docs

I think your 9V jack red (+) and black (-) are swapped. That is, assuming you're using center-negative 9V plug like all pedals. There's no protection diode so it's possible that the reverse voltage hook-up damaged the transistors or electrolytic caps. (I'm guessing not, but it's possible that...

I would go 1u MLCC also, I’ve found that sometimes E-caps can let a little DC voltage leak through. If this happens at this point in the circuit, then a little dc voltage builds up on the output and causes a pop when switching. Film works too, as mentioned. I haven’t had any issues I’ve...

don't know. You could export the SpinASM code and analyze it. It should have text commands for: WRAX DACL, 0 (which means write some signal to the Left Output (Digital->Analog Converter Left) (pin 28) WRAX DACR, 0 (which means write some signal to the Right Output (Digital->Analog Converter...

The dev board doesn’t tie L and R outputs together. R output is unconnected. Anyway, cool project, thanks for sharing

your diagram was not correct, it showed diodes connected in parallel, not series. Also, if it helps, pretend the A & K holes aren't there. they're just for convenience so the LED fits nicer. They function just like the outer holes.

You’ll want them in series to raise the Vf (total forward voltage. , also = clipping threshold).

Agree about reading that article. Also, Do you have a multimeter? If not, get a cheap one and put it in Beep mode (conductivity test) to illustrate how the pcb points correspond to the circuit diagram. That process might clarify things.

It’s not the same, but kinda similar to the Tube Screamer, which uses a W taper to help get some chances on the middle area. You can try messing with this filter some for a mid scoop, worth a try. but there’s nothing structurally set up to cut mids, like a notch filter as is. If you really...

The bigger chunk of metal inside that clear led is the cathode (negative) (toward the center of the board). Just for reference. Glad you got it going!

Cool! You can still do red led one direction, 1n4148 the other direction, that’s just not how you had it when you had a total of 3 1n4148s. You can just put a 1n4148 back where you were gonna put the orange, try both directions so the red still works. The orange led should have worked, IF it...

This picture how you have it? The build doc says diode OR LEDs looks like you have both in that spot

You could just try swapping the led wires to change the orientation of the led and see if it’s lighting. This shows the case where the 1n4148 and led are pointing opposite directions.

Is the led in the opposition orientation from the 1n4148? LED has a higher forward voltage (threshold before it clips). If they’re the same orientation, then the 1n4148 will clip before the signal hits the led threshold. Otherwise, it could be just not enough gain for the led. but I think...

Nice. If you want 2 diodes to change the clipping threshold, you have to put 2 in series (same direction). (Looks like you have 2 diodes same direction in parallel? But for diodes that means it will function just like one diode. Common way is to build a “tent” to put them in series. Here’s a...

Some reference info - handwriting fv-1 code is a whole learning curve. You can also use SpinCad (by digital Larry) to generate code from blocks, but the code he linked from the spinsemi site is probably a better starting point for this specific project. A single eeprom chip can hold up to 8...