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I made a version of the solina midi synth from the same blog, also originally by Jan Ostman. It’s cool but quite lo-fi sounding and quirky. The code for these is quite hard to decipher honestly, at least compared other hobby type arduino code I’ve seen or wrote. But for this drum machine, you...

Awesome! I’ve messed with this project and loaded the code to hear the sounds. But haven’t put it together in a box with the switches. You’ve inspired me to maybe get back to it.

I agree with all the Deep Blue suggestions. It’s excellent. I made an Fv-1 approximation of the Deep blue delay circuit. The actual repeats are handled in digital, but all the surrounding circuitry that imparts the EQ/tone follows the deep blue circuit. The main benefit for your use case would...

Hey! I've essentially re-written the code to be easier for me to read since the above posts. Here is the code. The pitch shifts follow info straight from spin-semi site (see the "rom_pitch" sample code and the AN0001 "application note" pdf from the "products" tab of the spinsemi site. I'm...

Chorus effects work by making a vibrato, slightly delayed, and then mixing 50/50 with your dry signal. The Caesar puts this mixing on a knob so you can go from dry to chorus to vibrato. (D-c-v knob on the Julia). Part of the chorus-y sound is the out of tune-ness between dry and vibrato, and...

Nice, couple thoughts C1 needs polarity flipped D1 is the 9V to GND style, instead of the series style of pedalpcb. If you apply reverse voltage on accident, D1 will fry. If you do it like PPCB products, applying reverse voltage does no damage. You lose like 0.3V or so (if you use the 1N5817 I...

Yeah the R is an additional CLR (current limiting resistor). You already have a CLR in you red wire from the 9V +, under the heat shrink, it looks like to me. I guess I thought you were using red / blue from the diagram, rereading you’re actually using red/green. In my experience blue is...

Yep that should get you up and running. This would address all 3 items.

Here we go Attached image is from this article: https://www.earthquakerdevices.com/blog-posts/killswitch-engagement#:~:text=On%20the%20other%20hand%2C%20a,will%20do%20the%20same%20thing. Read elsewhere just now that the breaking (or interruptive) type can lead to pops when switching...

The diagram has you switching 9V supply to the anodes, so you can leave the cathode always grounded. The diagram is wrong. Option 1: You can jumper the middle-middle to middle-top lugs (currently both black wires) to make the cathode always grounded. Option 2: Or simply run the cathode wire...

Yeah that seems possible, time to test it out I think.

10k is probably still reasonable starting point. I would put a series resistor before lug 2 so that you aren’t overloading the op amp output with a short to GND

Yeah I think that’s a good idea at of saying it. Your signal can be bias around 0V or 4.5V, and it can jump back and forth within your pedal. Each time you want to jump bias, you need a capacitor to block the DC offset. Any op amp stage will be operating at 4.5v bias. You might as well keep it...

Yeah the 470R was just dumping the dirty mostly Vref with the blend knob at min. Think of the typical volume knob as a voltage divider. This would be like having a volume pot at almost minimum (10k at the top, 470R at the bottom). According to simple voltage divider calc (ratio of bottom R /...

very cool, do you leave the CUT knob setting at minimum? (Full treble)?

you can also change the buffer on the clean side into a boost so that the max clean is louder. Add resistor between the op-amp “-“ & “out” pins. More resistance is more volume here. Include a 100p or so capacitor too for good measure. And a resistor and cap from the “-“ to vref. Maybe like this.

I don’t think the originally posted circuit would work. The 470R needs to be bigger to isolate the two signals so that muting the clean doesn’t nearly mute the dirty. Bringing that up to 10k might work well enough without changing anything else. Another way to do additive blend is to exactly...

the volume pot is linear. Replacing with log would help dialing in reasonable volumes.

Nice info ^. I’m planning a build, I’d like to have the cap changes on a switch so that the full low end original circuit is still available. Obviously only 1 capacitor (cathode bypass) is easier to switch out than 4 (coupling). Would you say the 1uF Cathode bypass is a similar effect as the...

Have you looked at the Dung Beetle (Basic Audio Scarab Deluxe)?