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For the diode thing, you could just have the switch bypass D2 for the symmetric mode without adding diodes.

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb581/ Currently out of stock.

I wonder if the noises would go away without the charge pump. Unfortunately, it’s not as simple as just pulling the chip out, it would require some effort to mod. PPCB does have the eunuch buffer (same as skeptical but sans charge pump). I would think 0~9V would be fine for a buffer.

Each patch is limits to 128 code lines. It has more to do with how it processes the number of lines in the code within the sample rate. (It has to run the whole code within each sample rate (32.768kHz if you use the normal crystal) Cant increase code length at all beyond that no matter what.

Very cool combo. For a stand alone muff pedal, you can also change the capacitors to get a flat or even mid-boost. Not sure which version of the Muffin you built, but doubling C11 often does the trick. Check out the site "tsc in the web", it graphs different amp and pedal tone stacks...

For 1. It’s possible if you do your own pcb design but it’ll be tight, have to be a really small drive circuit. Unless you do stacked pcbs (such as the PPCB Byzantium). 2. The PPCB fb-1 development board is what you’re after. It took me a bit of finagling to get the programs running on my pc...

Hmm it should have worked, assuming you kept R7, R16, and R17 populated. If the FV-1 pins are not connected to anything, they are floating and can change state (from 0 to 1) dues to electrical noise. The 100k pull-down resistors make sure the pins are solidly in the 0 state. Even if you...

Can you check the resistance across R28 and R29? The stripe that should be orange looks red in the pic for both. (Thought stripe color in pictures is tough). If it is red, then they would be 6.8k instead of 68k. That could maybe explain that they isolating the bypass from the effect of the...

Yes, but it may or may not be disagreeable. Here’s a graph roughly showing the sweep of a 250kA (blue) vs 1000kA + 330k in parallel (green)

A quicker mod would just to be to add a resistor (such as 330k) across the drive pot (lug 1-2). This will work in parallel with the pot resistance. (Max would be 1000k || 330k which equals 248k). You could either do this as an experiment to determine your desired max, and then use a pot as...

hmm so this isn't a stomp, it's meant to sit on the piano. But interesting idea... I looked and around and didn't see many options for guitar pedalboard stomp metronomes, beside in some multi-fx units. I wonder if anyone would use something like this. The input jack allows running your...

If I follow the result correctly so far, it seems like an issue in the IC2 area (whether the chip or something else). You could remove the TL072 (ic2) and check the voltages again. (With the charge pump back in). The voltages were weird before. We’ll see if removing the chip and measuring at...

Yep I had no doubt of being understood around here for that.

Wow I’m surprised it makes it that far. It’s reaching pin 6 of IC2? Sounds like the effect should? Edit: read your message above wrong, though you meant it dies at pin7 of IC2. All signs still point to issues at IC2 (either the chip or surrounding components)

Yeah my idea oils basically just run IC2 on 0v - 9v (or a little less) instead of the designed -9v - 18v. Audio should work this way (checking if the charge pump chip itself is bad). With the probe, we’re you able to find the point at which volume drops?

Hmm I wonder if we could try to bypass the charge pump. Remove the pump chip from the socket. Stick a wire in the pin5 socket hole and clip it to ground.

The IC voltage are looking strange to me. Are you measuring the dc voltage compared to ground? Where you’re showing error should just read zero volts (ground points). IC2 pin 8 should read near 18V, and pin 4 should read near -9V. I would also look into fashioning a simple “audio probe” to...

Here's the arduino code.

I needed a metronome for my kids practicing piano. Would have been cheaper to buy one, but here we are. The 3-character LED segment display is from tayda. I found a great article about wiring it up and coding it here. I ended up using the library at the end of the article since it's so...

I assume onboard 9v battery, in that case be sure to wire up the guitar jack with TRS so that unplugging the guitar cable switches off the power (tie the battery - wire to the jack ring lug)