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It looks to me like your in jack tip is wired to ground but it's difficult to make out You'd still get bypass signal even with the jacks wired incorrectly albeit you would get a little bit of static when at idle ie not playing but you wouldn't get effect signal Post clear images of your in and...

Definitely I generally use them inside the enclosure especially with wired pots I'll angle the pcb back and jam them between pot lugs to stop them moving when I tighten them up They're particularly good for getting into tiny inaccessible places and holding smd components in place stuff like that

Just a general comment on how I remember it, positive ground can get confusing I generally just think of it as ground is a zero voltage reference and its either positive or negative but it's always 0v Ground still connects to ground regardless of its polarity That helps me connect...

I love these, lots of uses prying, holding things in place, jamming wires under the pcb to hide them etc etc they're just an all round cheap handy thing to have...

Lumberg KLBM3s would probably be fine The datasheet with dimensions is here https://uk.farnell.com/lumberg/klbm-3/socket-6-35mm-jack/dp/1217005 The body is a lot smaller and you can turn them to fit I'd get a bulb with pins similar to this https://www.banzaimusic.com/Bulb-12V-20mA.html

Did you check what looks like a fuse or some kind of circuit protection device thingy F1 if it's a fuse it should have continuity across it that's a likely candidate for blowing I can't quite make out the part number on it

I'll PM you

Where are you in the UK I've got a couple of these I bought a while ago but still haven't used you're welcome to one if you want it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194327610250?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gVVg5_8mTwG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=VraIHHfoTvS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Just added the zonk machine which is basically a MK1 tonebender with value changes I use tagboard rather than turretboard I'm in Scotland and get mine on eBay here...

If you Google 'tagboard layouts' you should get a few options There's some layouts here https://www.amplifiedparts.com/pedal-guides https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/search/label/Tagboard?max-results=20&m=1 https://vero-p2p.blogspot.com/2020/12/hornby-skewes-zonk-machine-tag-board.html?m=1

I bought some MN3005s directly from Xvive in China they put me onto fzone technology which I thought looked a bit dodgy Anyway I ordered 3 and an MN3007 just to test and they were all good It's much harder to tell these days if they're fake with Xvive etc being manufactured in China

Glad you've got it fixed Tants go fairly easily either with a dramatic explosion or they fizzle out especially if they're in backwards you should pop a couple just for fun 😄 I know I would

Meant to say that all your component values and orientation that I can see look correct I can't see R29 the 47R or most of the cap values and orientation

To narrow down your problem area (using the schematic) and to figure out if it's in the LFO or lamp driver section first check you get alternating voltages on the speed pot lug 2s as you turn it, make sure your trimmers are the correct value bias 250K (code labelling 254) and gain 500R (code...

R6 should be 470R it looks like 470K that's going to affect the biasing

Agreed with @giovanni lead dress can have a bearing on noise especially with higher gain circuits You don't want power and audio wires running close or parallel to each other if it can be helped, and I wouldn't personally braid wires together If you have to cross them do it like this + and...

How old is it? are you using the original power supply, back in the day some were tip positive if it's a 3.5mm power jack Easy enough to check if it gets inverted voltage on the pcb power joints or dc jack lugs

Anyone able to tell me the voltages for Q2 in the Bellum MK1 It's not for troubleshooting I just happened to pick this schematic to work out voltages and my thick skull can't work it out Thanks

I was talking about checking the regulator IC6 to see if it gets warm or hot with the fact it works for 30 seconds then cuts out if it did heat up the thermal shut down would shut it off automatically But still don't get your hopes up!

Don't get your hopes up haha It's just something I would check for a fault like this where it intermittently cuts out I've came across it twice once on an ehx holy grail and once on a tube pedal I'd built because I didn't heatsink the regulator but obviously the tube heaters draw a lot more...