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I use a DCA75 those testers aren't the most consistent I've got one and you definitely have to put the pins in the correct row / numbered socket or you'll get strange results I think certain slots are for diodes etc Did you do the calibration procedure...

From his 3PDT pcb documentation it doesn't actually show by switch lug number how it connects assuming it connects like this To check bypass throw 2 (red lines) you'd check from in jack tip to lug 2 down to lug 3 along the jumper to lug 9 up to lug 8 to the out jack tip If your meter doesn't...

You should get bypass without power and even if you plug your cables in the wrong way around bypass simply connects your in jack straight to your out jack via the 3PDT switch try reflowing your in and out jack solder joints It's very difficult to see and trace your wiring from your images It...

Pinout looks correct The 2N2222A also came in the metal can TO18 package https://www.etechnophiles.com/2n2222-transistor-pinout-equivalent-specs/

No problem I got a lot of info from Mr Transistor (Andrew) here http://www.wylie.org.uk/technology/technology.htm He's pretty good at answering enquiries and very knowledgeable although the sites a bit of a mare to navigate there's lots of information on it

Mullards where made in lots of different places Holland, France, Germany etc UK made ones are labelled made in Great Britain anything made anywhere in the then British empire will say British made Lots of genuine Mullard transistors do not even have Mullard written on them yours doesn't say...

It looks real to me What I can tell you is it was made in Southampton the 45th week of the year 1971 7145DG = 71 = 1971 45 = 45th week of the year DG = Southampton https://mullard.org/blogs/news/83886851-cv-numbers-and-uk-military-date-and-factory-codes

Use the PDF I posted to help with probing The best place to check signal strength is mix pot lug 3 for wet and lug 1 for dry

Russian D9K

Chucks boneyard on here there's a few tutorials on fets etc the man knows what he's tawkin about I'd say you've done a fine job considering you took this build with a herculean amount of components as a first foray into pedal building and looking at your build the soldering looks pretty good...

Excellent well done to you Here's a wee celebration tune

Aye I'm in Scotland and I get all my through hole fets from Barry boy it's a lot cheaper than getting them in Europe + I know he tests every single one he sells

MPF102 should be fine Gpcb has 5485's if you want them https://guitarpcb.com/product/jfet-2n5485/

Perhaps build yourself the audio probe whilst you wait for your meter It's always a good troubleshooting method to learn and as I say cheap and easy to make Unless I've missed it I don't see an image of your entire pcb showing all components and wiring, post a nice clear image of the...

Without a meter it'll be difficult to check efficiently The fact you get bypass but not effect could be a number of things I personally would wait till I had a meter and set it aside for now to avoid any further damage In the meantime if you really can't wait the next best tool would be a...

From what you've said dry signal appears OK you can also check dry at blend pot lug 3 and wet at lug 1 IC1s your LFO you shouldn't get audio through that does your led D LFO pulse at different speeds with the rate pot I'd also check for audio at pin 3 with IC3 out of socket

It's really difficult to see or trace anything clearly We'd need an image looking down on the board so we can see all component values and orientation I can't see how you've got your pots wired they should go to the underside of the pcb so may be working backwards

Use an audio probe you'll be able to check inputs and outputs of active devices much quicker Should be clean in at pin 3 and wet out at 7/8

A 100K trimmer would just be harder to fine tune so to speak you can set it to 50K between lugs 2 and 3 then as you turn CW resistance will decrease giving you the correct resistance range to sweep through Are you getting signal into pin 3 and out at 7/ 8 on the 3207

Just wire it exactly as shown in the build doc last page The majority of your solder joints look OK just look for any dull grey joints or any that haven't covered the entire pad with solder Just hold your iron tip on any suspect joints for around 4 to 6 seconds until you see the solder...