Search results

That's a thicc boi. I like it.

Just looking through the build doc and I don't think the presence control will be doing much of anything with that large 220K series resistor (R15) and the tiny 25K pot. R15 should really be 22-33K. Presence pot could also be upped to B100K for a wider range of control.

Q1 is a unity gain buffer. A poorly chosen source resistor can negatively affect the output swing range of Q1 and thus provide less than unity gain, but there's a range of values that will work here and unless your J201s are out of spec or something else is going on, both 2.4k and 3.3k should be...

I ordered the board a couple of days ago and I'm very much looking forward to the build! Will definitely do a demo but I haven't even started sourcing parts yet, so it'll be a while. Already thinking of doing a couple of mods though. C6/R11 in the build doc are the raw mode values. Add a 2.2n...

Easy. Follow me for more awesome tips and tricks! :cool: More resistors = more TOAN

I'm just here wondering what my guy @Feral Feline needed a precisely 330147 Ohm resistor for.

Probably something by this guy: https://www.pcbway.com/project/member/?bmbno=19C5FC6C-66B1-46 Edit: Looks like the Catalinbread RAH. https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Catalinbread_RAH_19691b12.html

Turned out fine! A little rough around the edges but it doesn't bother me. I'm happy.

Crafty! Unfortunately, I'm a lazy bum so I'd rather go the pre-made route :D I ordered some of the LMR100 suggested above. We'll see how workable it is.

C5 in combination with the source resistor R8 is about both gain and frequency response. At 10-22uF, it's almost a full-range boost. At 1uF, bass will be rolled off while the upper mids and above still get the full amount of boost. 10nF is too small to do anything useful and would indeed just...

I'll check it out, thanks! That's stranded though, isn't it?

So far, I've been using RG174 for shielded I/O wiring when required, but would be interested in a solid core alternative. I generally like the RG174, but don't trust the solder joints to withstand more than one or two reboxings of an effect. It always feels like it's about to snap at any moment...

It's a feel thing.

Thanks, man!

Demo added. I like this one best for high distortion doomy/sludgy tones, so that's what the video focuses on. I'm finding this one a little hard to dial in, even though the tone controls have a very wide range. The Beta Lead tone stack is easier to work with for both bass and guitar in my opinion.

As a righty, I'd put the fine controls on the right for easier access.

I thought maybe you were comparing the preamp out on the clone to the power amp out on the original, but if that's not it I'd suggest opening up the pedal and confirming parts values. Could also be that the trace of the original pedal simply isn't accurate. I'm not sure if Robert did his own...

I'm only seeing two 1/4" jacks, but the pedal should have three. Is your output jack connected to the guitar or power amp output pad? The guitar output has additional filtering (lower volume and a substantial low pass filter).

Aion FX has some boards with power ground pads that are connected directly to the DC jack, but if you look at the wiring diagram of the Redshift, it seems like no additional wiring is necessary, so the different grounds are already connected on the board. Ground connections eventually have to...

I just checked, it's 5x5mm minimum size, so that'll work. I'll just give it a try and see how they turn out :)