Search results

I'm just starting to get into DipTrace and created this JFET adapter board. Can I just export this as gerber + NC drill, upload to JLCPCB and be done with it? It's literally just a board outline, pads and traces. It looks fine in the gerber viewer. Are the rounded corners going to be an issue?

If we're talking about C1, that's a coupling capacitor, not a decoupling capacitor. It blocks DC while allowing AC signals to pass. A decoupling capacitor would be connected in parallel to ground, and for example be used to filter out high frequencies or stabilize voltages in the power supply...

That looks better. You can use the pathfinder tool to expand the compound shapes with the text cut outs, then click "minus front" to permanently cut out the shapes from the background.

I'd recommend it simply because it takes the enclosure colour and texture out of the equation. It may be fine in this particular case, but as you said, it won't hurt.

That's not going to work. You need to create outlines for all the fonts, i. e. convert them to shapes. The white layer can only contain the color RDG_WHITE from the Roland swatch provided here: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/datasheets/UVprinting/RolandVersaWorks.ai There can't be any white in...

Fair enough! Something like the McPherson Anti Buffer/AMZ Pickup Simulator can be used to "unbuffer" a signal, but that would be yet another pedal on the board. @MichaelW did a build report of one those a while back (https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/the-anti-buffer-pedal.24804).

Nice build. Loving that enclosure color. Is that buffer always on? A big part of the treble booster tone is due to low input impedance and thus pickup loading, which will roll off and smooth out the highs. A buffer in front negates that effect and can lead to an overly bright or otherwise...

Yep, looks good.

When using PedalPCB breakout boards: PCB 1 IN = S1 PCB 1 OUT = R1 PCB 2 IN = S2 PCB 2 OUT = R2 LED = SW JACK IN = leftmost pad on bypass board JACK OUT = rightmost pad on bypass board IN of bypass board connected to IN of order board (same for OUT) Edit: For clarification, it's easiest to just...

I used to snip off the alignment tab and file it so it looks like a regular washer. I'm lazy though, so now I just do what everyone does and flip it around: I got some tab-less mini switch washers a while ago but I kind of like the look of the little tab.

Did some more testing and removed R7 and C4 like @JTEX suggested. Would have been better to not use a guitar loop but white noise or a frequency sweep for the analysis but oh well. Clipping is pretty much the same between either variant. The graphs suggest a tiny bit of difference in the...

The switch appears to be the correct one. It looks like a DPDT with 6 pins, but it's actually just an SPDT with the pins of each side connected. See the datasheet: Here's the switch in the Lithium schematic, confirming it's really just an SPDT but like, twice, or something. I don't know :D...

Might be worth trying out other op amps (TL072, NE5532, etc.) with same pinout as well, although tuning the other components will likely have a much larger effect on the tone than just the op amp.

Thanks, man. A little nod to the original, which also has staggered knobs.

Probably availability and/or price. It's been a while since I sourced the parts for this. Come to think of it, I do remember looking into any possible differences between the 4558D and 4558DD. There's talk about the DD being a "high gain" version of the D, but what does that actually refer to...

Old habits die hard. Blame it on Boss pedals. I also almost put a white washer on the footswitch because I liked the contrast (no joke).

Yep, Epcos/TDK from Mouser. Decent price actually in bulk and a good way to get over the free shipping threshold.

Bit of a cursed build. Soldering the components went fine, drilling at first also went fine, problems started to arise once I actually went to box up the thing. I soldered in the rotary switch first, which turned out to be a bad idea. The body is a little shallower than that of the pot with a...

I do something similar with a couple of extra steps: measure twice, drill once, test fit, scream, drill again and hope the washer covers the fuck-up.

I recorded some demos to determine how the pedal does or doesn't color the tone of the guitar at different boost levels. The loops were recorded from the guitar straight into my audio interface. They were then played back from the line-out of my audio interface into a Palmer Daccapo reamp box...