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I agree!! Swapping parts is a very effective way of troubleshooting! Even more so when you have more on the way!

I personally don't socket my transistor, specifically for this reason. To many times they loosen up. If your happy with the overall sound of the pedal you can tack the transistors into place. Small amount of solder on one leg only should hold them in place. That way its easier if you get a bug...

These are the generic drain voltages that others are shooting for on this circuit. They may be helpful Q1-3.78V Q2-6.85V Q3-4.02V Q5-5.6V Q6-2.7V

Mouser has them, but they are expensive. music6000's suggestion is cheaper.

That will kill a input signal rather quickly

Looks good! For the gain pot, go with a C500K, works great! That's what a lot of the originals had in them.

If you Google "audio probe pedal" videos will come up, along with how to make them. Cap size isn't too important, any size cap above 10n to 220n will work. It's primary purpose is to keep DC from being passed to the amp if you touch the wrong lead.

One other thing to try is an audio probe. You can make on easily. I've got one on a jack and one on an alligator clip lead. I've also seen people suggest using an old multimeter probe ( which is a great idea. But its basically a 100nF cap with a short stiff wire on one lead and a wire thats long...

Read up on JFET's in the forum, Chuck's Boneyard. He knows his stuff STONE COLD. I have a working knowledge of them, but really didn't see them until I started down this rabbit hole of a hobby awhile ago. Most other components, I have worked with for quite a long time, those JFET's though, they...

The '71 variant I built has an Aion board in it, which has the switch mounted on the PCB already, that's just a cap change away and I still have the stock circuit to boot!

That's Sick!!!

I might have to give it a try. I have a couple of Muff variants, the 71 variant with the 500pF caps is a little dark, might brighten it just enough.

Not Necessarily. A JFET is constructed differently than a BJT transistor. The biasing trimmers are setting the voltage on the drain. With no input to the pedal you should have zero volts on the gate. Voltage on the drain should be same as voltage on the source. When you apply the input and it...

That's a lot of bass your cutting, isn't it?

OK you have power to the circuit. I was wondering because the ground wire from the DC jack to PCB has a questionable solder joint. You may need to reflow all the solder joints. Also do you have an extra J201, if so try swapping each one out, one at a time.

If your talking about the 2 red LED's on the right PCB (inside the enclosure) flashing, they are for clipping and will only turn on when the signal from the op amp has enough gain to forward bias the LED's. Turn the gain pot up to check them with a signal into the effect.

Do you have an issue with it removing certain component markings? I used it on a PCB with white Kemmet caps and it removed the markings on the top on the caps.

Does the LED light when you engage the effect?

There is more than those 3 caps that affect the tone of the different Muffs. You have to look at all the filters in the circuit and see if any of the resistors are different, which a few variants have different values for key resistors, also you have to look at the tone stack also. EHX changed...

Resistance for sure, if you have a continuity mode or diode mode that beeps when low that works too. Easier to use also.