Search results

The dots are from the mold ejection pins, on smaller IC's they may only have 1 of these and use it for Pin1. On bigger IC's they have more and may offset one to indicate pin1 or they will use a notch, or both. There is no standard from manufacturer to manufacturer. So you have to look and see...

Also take a picture of backside of board, if PT2399 is correct

Check the PT2399, is it in wrong. The build doc has it with Pin1 top left side, you have Pin1 on bottom right

JFETs are notorious for being all over the place, looks like those $4 Mouser fets were worth it?

R4 C3 & 4 and depending on dip switch C15 form a filter, R5 and C4 form another filter. Check those

Try C3 and C4, I went trough the circuit and it shouldn’t be shrilled, it should cut more high frequencies than other pedals based on the Guv’nor You could use the audio probe to try and find where the shrill is introduced in circuit, then check resistors and caps in that are for a bad solder...

Darn, 3.3 would explain the ice pick

Check R4 real quick. It’s hard to tell from pics but it looks like it’s 3.3k, should be 33K. It’s part of a low pass filter and 3.3k will raise the cut frequency, letting higher frequencies into the op amp

No Problem, Glad is was an easy fix and you are enjoying your new pedal! Now comes the hard part.....The Graphics!

It’s pretty cool. A definite keeper.

It is most likely an early version 1 tall font. The circuit between the civil war and the tall font didn't change and a lot of the early ones used the civil war pcb and had the gray arrow style jacks, which you have. Also the white TS jacks were used on the early version 1's. Also in both...

Loving the artwork!

Looks good!!!

It looks like you power wire is on the battery lug, not the +9V lug. When you plug in you will open the internal switch and no power to board. Move the red wire on DC jack from inside lug to outside lug. Then plug in and recheck ICs for voltage

No problem, I enjoy troubleshooting and I learn a lot from helping out, so its all good!

C6 and C7 will affect the tone. The nice thing is you can tack a second capacitor onto existing cap to raise value. It won’t take a big change to lower the freq on the tone, try a second 10n same with treble

Did you check the dip switch the bottom one should affect tone

The green line is where to run the wire. You can see the trace from R16 to R6 on the image above

You answered the question of where's the problem. With the drive pot maxed (Fully CW) You should have the 5 on pin 3 of drive pot, and R16 (1-) and R6(1-). It would seem that the connection somewhere between Drive pot pin3 and R16/R6 isn't what it should be. Try soldering wire between drive...

The TL072 won't work. I thought that was what the Tayda board had on it and they had parked the one of the channels. But definitely try the OP07. It should be a direct swap. I have had some issues with the TL series chips in high gain circuits. Not sure if it was a bad chip or what, I just...