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I LIKE IT!!!!! I've been wondering about the gold knobs, nice to see them up close on a pedal. They look much better than I thought they would.

Thats the route I would take, some of the signals on IC1.2 can get weird in the secondary loop, thats the feedback loop that gets distortion to op amp. When checking those try to have the pedal at unity and the switch in the clean boost mode at first, this should remove the diodes from the circuit.

Keep us updated! The hardest issues to find are intermittent and/or when something is just slightly off!

Is that Celsius, and what type of solder are you using. I believe lead free solder requires a higher temp. I use tin/lead and shoot for 460 to 470 F

Nope, the orginal is the 308N, Futurelec has the 301N, a good replacement and close to the 308N. But if you can get a 308N stay with the original. I think Motorola was the original manufacturer. They quit making them years ago. A few other companies made them and continued production past...

I’m totally different than above. I have drawers of parts. They are all organized according to type and size. When I decided to build a certain pedal I check inventory and order what I’m short of, always ordering more than I need. Then when I build I just pull the parts as needed. (Less mess for...

IC swappers and uniformed individuals. Proco knows a lot of people buy the new ones with the intention of replacing the OP07, leaving the cap in the circuit helps sales on this. Otherwise why not just build one from a pcb up, Like we do.

Get the 308N from Jameco, no reason to not go with original. Its pricey but not to bad, I have found them from $3 to $5. Also Jameco is a bigger outfit, so it should be legit. As far as common goes, not really. There are a few circuits based on these that call for the 308 but not many. I would...

If you can get the 308N from here do so!

Not at all! It is internally compensated. With OP07 the 30 pF cap is not needed. With the 308N you can change the slew rate with the cap size. I checked the Tadya docs and the 30pF cap is there

OP07, the OP07CD is SMD which will not work

Yes Sir, man Jameco is pricey.

Really Nice, both of them. And let's face the facts. If your on this forum you have a problem! Either your pedal doesn't work or you are way into pedals in general! Or both! :ROFLMAO:

The slew rate is the key!

I used to think the same way, I was building a rat for my daughter a while back, and had all the parts and did all my research. After populating the board I was finishing the enclosure and had a 308 chip fall into my lap, literally. Someone had it laying around in a drawer from years ago, it was...

Yes you can. I looked at board and thought it was a TL072, its actually a TL071! An OP07 or a LM308N will go right in. With the OP07 or TL071 C3 30pF cap is not needed. With a LM308N it is. Since you included it any IC will work. Even an OP07 might sound better than a TL071. I've found the...

A couple of things you can to, if you haven't done so already change out the op amp. If no change, use an audio probe. Start at the beginning of the circuit and work your way through and see if there is indeed a sound drop in the circuit. Check before and after each component from left to right...

Some multimeter have a diode checking function on them that will tell you the forward bias voltage, that's all you can really check. The spec sheet for the MA856 says the forward voltage is 1Vdc max. So Really no way to tell if they are fake or not. I doubt they are fake, pedal hackers has good...

Good Deal!!! If you like the sound of this one, track down a LM308N (not from e-bay though, most likely fakes) and build a Muroidea. Use Ge diodes for the clipping diodes and its a sweet sounding distortion pedal, same as a You Dirty Rat. Some people say the op amp makes a difference and others...

I do believe you have the pot legs numbered backwards. If looking at component side of board, from left to right it would be 3-2-1. Your diagram shows 1-2-3.