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I have squeezed two relay bypass boards in a 1590BB. It was a bit awkward, but it worked. I stuck one under the board, and one over the footswitches. I insulated both sides because they would otherwise touch the walls of the enclosure. Check out this build report to see how it looks...

Just genuinely curious as a fan of mid-boost pedals myself- is it the lack of a Q control? I’m a fan of the Varioboost, and that’s probably what I would want. A one channel fully parametric EQ plus a clean boost.

To answer the original question, there is no drawback to using the Cusack enclosures. They are no less durable. As far as hand drilling, it is easier than a hammond, despite a hammond enclosure being already very easy to drill.

I was looking at that Axe Fx, and it looks like it has plenty of inputs and outputs. Is there a reason those won’t work for this case?

Dialing up the resident Brian May aficionado… @mkstewartesq

Another way of thinking of it is to wire what you have now “upside down”. So that the footswitch is pointing the wrong way. Then the wiring is correct and you twist it 180 to orient the footswitch correctly. If that makes sense.

There are PCBs that will fit in a SBP 1590B Pro that will not fit into a regular 1590B. There’s a mm or two of extra space because of the thinner walls. I put a PPCB Spirit Box in one.

The SBP Cusack enclosures are great. They are a bit easier to drill, especially if you are using a hand drill.

What I’m saying is the way stereo is implemented on the CH-1 is one channel wet, one channel dry. It’s pretty cool really- the chorus effect is created in the acoustic space that the two amps are in.

But all you would need to do is buffer n’ split the signal before the chorus, so the mono version can be used like the stereo version.

But hey, no worries! Happy first build! I actually did this same thing on my first build. I even started a thread on what to do with it and it has answers: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/n00b-question-using-a-backwards-3pdt-daughterboard.22021/

Naw dude- that 3pdt breakout board is upside down. Looking at the component side of the board, you shouldn’t see the “this side down” warning.

I’m starting to think I should set up an insert so that I can patch my signal into one of the springs on the garage door.

Same- when I practice, I just plug directly into a clean amp.

The best reverb I ever used for a recording was a 50’ barn. Not my barn though. I have a DL-4 mk II on my board. It’s fine 🤷‍♂️ It works for me because I can have a preset for each patch, and I use around 45 of them. I thought about replacing it with a DD-500. The ghost echo and deflector...

I haven’t used that muff variant, but the Kewpie is excellent. Every time I A/B’d against another muff, I preferred the Kewpie. The Carcass is one of my other favorites. A bit of a different beast, but has a wide range of excellent tones.

Those labels aren’t on any of the wishlist items anymore. I don’t see the ”completed” filter, and the “in-progress” filter returns no results. However, you can filter by the “:)” and “😐” labels.

You finally have it! I’m not sure how many times I saw a GotA post about the CE-1. Good call on the white & moon knight.

That is a clean build. The bare wire look works great with that layout. I have one of those “brown” sand tayda enclosures. It’s not what I think of as brown. In person it looks more gray and just a little bit brown. Especially next to something brown, like this:

I was unable to reproduce this issue on my end. I tried the forum in a private tab (no cache/cookies) and still had my avatar icon at the top.