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Both based on the TC integrated preamp and the Fortin derivatives. Isosceles should be a bit more versatile since it can also be switched to the Fortin Grind. I'm not sure the Dirty Tree has been traced, so it's anyone's guess if they modded the circuits or kept it stock.

Might be an issue with the raster image. Maybe some pixel around the edges has the same color code as the RDG_WHITE spot color and this is causing problems. It would be better if you used vector graphics only.

Most isolated DC-DC converters have a maximum capacitive load spec. Exceeding this limit can kill the converter or at least result in serious start-up problems from what I read. For capacitors directly across the converter outputs it's easy enough to figure out the load, just add up the values...

One thing to look out for is that hFE ranges given on listings may not be particularly accurate. If it says hFE 50-100 my experience is most of them will likely be around 50 or slightly under, not 75. Of course, there will also be many outliers, so best to order 10-20 rather than singles unless...

Do voltage regulators include filtering and would they be lower noise than the zener diode approach?

That's a thicc boi. I like it.

Just looking through the build doc and I don't think the presence control will be doing much of anything with that large 220K series resistor (R15) and the tiny 25K pot. R15 should really be 22-33K. Presence pot could also be upped to B100K for a wider range of control.

Q1 is a unity gain buffer. A poorly chosen source resistor can negatively affect the output swing range of Q1 and thus provide less than unity gain, but there's a range of values that will work here and unless your J201s are out of spec or something else is going on, both 2.4k and 3.3k should be...

I ordered the board a couple of days ago and I'm very much looking forward to the build! Will definitely do a demo but I haven't even started sourcing parts yet, so it'll be a while. Already thinking of doing a couple of mods though. C6/R11 in the build doc are the raw mode values. Add a 2.2n...

Easy. Follow me for more awesome tips and tricks! :cool: More resistors = more TOAN

I'm just here wondering what my guy @Feral Feline needed a precisely 330147 Ohm resistor for.

Probably something by this guy: https://www.pcbway.com/project/member/?bmbno=19C5FC6C-66B1-46 Edit: Looks like the Catalinbread RAH. https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Catalinbread_RAH_19691b12.html

Turned out fine! A little rough around the edges but it doesn't bother me. I'm happy.

Crafty! Unfortunately, I'm a lazy bum so I'd rather go the pre-made route :D I ordered some of the LMR100 suggested above. We'll see how workable it is.

C5 in combination with the source resistor R8 is about both gain and frequency response. At 10-22uF, it's almost a full-range boost. At 1uF, bass will be rolled off while the upper mids and above still get the full amount of boost. 10nF is too small to do anything useful and would indeed just...

I'll check it out, thanks! That's stranded though, isn't it?

So far, I've been using RG174 for shielded I/O wiring when required, but would be interested in a solid core alternative. I generally like the RG174, but don't trust the solder joints to withstand more than one or two reboxings of an effect. It always feels like it's about to snap at any moment...

It's a feel thing.

Thanks, man!

Demo added. I like this one best for high distortion doomy/sludgy tones, so that's what the video focuses on. I'm finding this one a little hard to dial in, even though the tone controls have a very wide range. The Beta Lead tone stack is easier to work with for both bass and guitar in my opinion.