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Old habits die hard. Blame it on Boss pedals. I also almost put a white washer on the footswitch because I liked the contrast (no joke).

Yep, Epcos/TDK from Mouser. Decent price actually in bulk and a good way to get over the free shipping threshold.

Bit of a cursed build. Soldering the components went fine, drilling at first also went fine, problems started to arise once I actually went to box up the thing. I soldered in the rotary switch first, which turned out to be a bad idea. The body is a little shallower than that of the pot with a...

I do something similar with a couple of extra steps: measure twice, drill once, test fit, scream, drill again and hope the washer covers the fuck-up.

I recorded some demos to determine how the pedal does or doesn't color the tone of the guitar at different boost levels. The loops were recorded from the guitar straight into my audio interface. They were then played back from the line-out of my audio interface into a Palmer Daccapo reamp box...

Your -9V is +4.5V as well.

I like the chill voice and music and was with him until it got to the "test". Got 30 bucks to burn on a PIO cap but not on a cheap capacitance meter? Come on...

Ha. Pedal buddies. Cool knob, I like it better than mine. Is that a Tayda chromium enclosure? I built one pedal with that color and decided never again. It scuffs up so easily.

I put this together now. I was not expecting it to be a factor with the +/- 18V power supply, but at higher gain settings (3 o'clock and up) the circuit does clip with humbuckers. Haven't tested it after pedals yet. I did notice it clips a little nicer than my MXR MC-401, which only uses a...

I was working on some nice enclosure art for this, but it's been a while since my last pedal and I just wanted to build and play something new. So I sanded down a bare aluminum 125B by hand real quick (it wasn't quick at all...) for a brushed aluminum finish. Turned out okay-ish. I like this...

I used to build a lot of Lego and that's the technique I used for perfectly aligning stickers on Lego bricks 😄 It works.

Supply voltage is 9V. R25/R26 form a voltage divider that sends half of that to ground. VREF then is 4.5V.

I personally wouldn't do it. Mounting two high wattage resistors in a 1590A or smaller with appropriately rated switches and jacks would keep the amp stock for possible resale and have the same effect, just a little less convenient. Also, purely resistive loads tend to suck high-end – like a...

So true. I'll sometimes record DIs and use a reamp box to play them back straight into a pedal for the purpose of trying out different op amps or diodes or whatever. The amount of times I thought I heard a difference during the initial recording, only for every take to literally sound the same...

Hah. I get that reference 😄

The power supply I'm pretty clear on. It looks to be taken pretty much straight from the datasheet of the TI LT1054 (Figure 22. Dual-Output Voltage Doubler) with different diodes/capacitor values. It puts out +/- 18V minus some diode drops as far as I know. Pretty damn good and very useful for a...

I wouldn't know, you're the pro :) People keep bringing this one up as a great transparent volume boost so I guess it works. I do have the board and parts here, just haven't gotten around to building it. There's more stuff I don't really understand the purpose of. The second op amp seems...

What is the purpose of R2, R3 and C2 in the input section?

It's an older revision of the ADHD https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/archived/ADHD.v2.pdf

When you drive an op amp beyond its output swing range, 0V to 9V for example, the output signal will start to clip. More gain = more clipping. Less supply voltage = earlier clipping. You bias to 1/2 VCC, 4.5V in this case, to ensure the output can swing symmetrically around this midpoint because...