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Anybody who claims they can hear a difference between carbon and metal film resistors (of the same value) is, at worst, a liar. Most of the mystique around vintage parts is most have massive tolerances, so an amp that sounds particularly good is likely caused by values being different from what...

What are you testing with?

A majority of analog pedals will draw 5-30ma, with a fair chunk of that normally being in the LED. https://stinkfoot.se/power-list

Seems to be TO220-5 and a pretty standard pinout - I'm sure you could use something like a LM1875 and it would work pretty much the same (not confirmed, just off a quick look at it)

If you know any hobbyist with a CNC, they are trivial to make - you just need to find somebody who is willing to do a small enough batch. Use PTFE for the most bougie ones available, or a 2.5mm A4 sheet of micarta will give you ~500 (I buy A4 sheets for $10). Despite what people think, you can...

PI is your best bet, but polycarbonate works in a pinch. Much higher working temperatures than anything printed, but still not anywhere near as good at machining it from PTFE or similar (which can't be laser cut due to the fumes coming off).

Laser cutting them would be much, much simpler - I've made a few subminiature tube sockets with machined Teflon and header pins, but laser is cheap and easy.

Yeah I figured that would be the case, but being able to keep high drive and low signal might be useful for driving the Muff thing after. You might be right with the pin out - I've just found a few with conflicting info, so might just test them to check I haven't done anything stupid

Rangemaster, not ring modulator. More just seeing if I missed something super obvious on the schematic upfront at this stage - I have a scope/etc but thought I'd start at the beginning to see if it was ever going to work on the first place

Top - Sziklai RM-thing. Bottom - CMOS Muff. Built, zero sound from the top side and super quiet, very trebly output from the bottom side. Only have done a quick poke at voltages and everything looks fine - I've got supply, vref and about 7v going to the 4007. Thanks!

Isopropyl and an ultrasonic cleaner

Working on rejigging my tube workshops, and decided to do a pretty basic triode project - Merlins LV triode clean boost. Before I got PCB's made, I cut a stripped down version on the CNC only to forget about vertical height requirements - it was a bit of a shitshow to get it into the enclosure...

I couldn't find it originally on their website, but was originally told that as long as the sections aren't electrically connected they're a separate design. Spent a little time back and forth on whether this was right or not after I found their own guidelines, and they eventually just said that...

I've had one PedalPCB board with a trace fault - from memory it was a Parentheses board, and I'm fairly sure it was something like the buffer not being connected to the octave input (which was VERY obvious once I got it built). I could physically see the trace between the two components but...

Post a schematic. You may just be able to use one of the hybrid tubes with dissimilar triodes to get the benefits you want without changing things massively

EEV blog post mirroring my experiences Their customer support has now been saying for 6 weeks that PayPal is "temporarily down" while they've deleted all mention of it from their website. Payoneer isn't available in Australia, and even then there are some real concerns using it ($20USD minimum...

I always just keep things simple - schottky for reverse polarity protection, then ferrite bead + caps for filtering. Most power supply noise these days is from switching instead of mains, so stacks of resistance isn't necessary for a HPF. Ferrite bead works to suppress switching noise without...

So there you go. Not a massive difference, and using much less board space. The lower bandwidth of the PP stages is actually advantageous - the rolloff is similar to where the original design has a couple of staggered LPF's before the tone stack, so response is almost identical if I use...

Just tried both in the sim to see which got closer

Pretty much any are going to work in that build - the cheap Tayda ones will be fine (it's just to reduce HF noise into the regulator - it's already got a lot of noise rejection so values aren't critical).