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I know this is a really, really old post - but did you ever discover any other series of CMOS chips that are quiet? I'm pushing my luck for room on this build that can only fit a DIP16 in there, and needs a couple more stages than just 3.

Your component designators don't match the current build documents. Can you please confirm which diodes/resistors you are talking about? I honestly don't see anything wrong with any of the values you have posted though - yes, you will lose voltage over any series diodes/resistors from the...

There's that witchcraft gyrator bandpass filter that will probably do the job - it's going to be absolute overkill and nuke everything outside of 1khz, but it's very cheap, has very easily available components and very low distortion. One of the examples given looks like it was made for this...

Honestly, little tweaks like this make a ridiculous amount of difference in ease of building - and something I almost always forget to do on my own PCBs :LOL:

Just letting you know I haven't forgotten - I've redesigned the board for an onboard isolated +/-15v power supply (that actually meets EMC class B regulation), and redoing the layout to reduce the noise floor even further (it was already pretty good on the original, but I reckon I can get...

Not really - you can on the other side of the board that's about it. Isopropyl alcohol - just enough for the back side of the board. I use the cleaner to heat it up slightly, let it sit for a minute, give it a quick scrub with an old toothbrush then rinse it back in the cleaner.

Is there anything like build docs or something we can help with to get some stuff off your plate?

@Robert - follow up again

Finished up a micro overdrive for a friend, and for an extra little bonus I laser marked his band logo onto the front. There is a weird shadow as the scaling got all fucked up while doing the marking, so I need to spend a little bit of time cleaning the enclosure up before I hand it over...

No problem - I did have separate switching PCBs for it, but I'll do some rejigging to get everything onto a single PCB so they're easier to get made. The first version I made did need an 18v supply, but I've changed over to an isolated DC-DC converter to make them way easier to power.

Just a single chip? I've got gerbers for a 6 band with footswitchable boost that loves fancy ICs. I really do agree using high slew rate ICs for clipping doesn't sound that great

G's are sort of a weird one where you get minimal control at either ends, but a lot of fine control in the middle ranges. You can just use a linear in there and it will fine.

That cap coming out of the top is the perfect spot for a tube

I recently discovered a couple of boxes of BD139/140s in my stash (that I was given years ago and didn't realize were particularly useful). I've tested around 20 of each out of a couple of hundred, and about 25% are 65-85 hfe. Guess I'm doing some silicon fuzzes 😅

My TC3 doesn't even read germanium whatsoever, so I'd probably verify another way

As long as the voltage rating is a bit above the maximum voltage you're going to see, then whatever is going to fit will be fine. You can leave that cap out - there is zero chance it is doing anything that is audible, and I doubt you're even going to be able to measure its inclusion.

If you're concerned about corrosion, pull a couple of feet off and wipe it lengthwise with paper towels. Voila - all corrosion gone!

For subminiatures, I've mostly dealt with Langrex - I did have a whole batch of 5672 pentodes (very similar to a 5678) that had heavily corroded flying leads that broke as soon as the tubes were handled, and they replaced them all no questions asked.

Every single FET circuit I've ever played with has sounded a million times better at 18-24v.

Do you have a pedal with buffered bypass? Put it in the front of the chain with everything off and see if it makes a difference.