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Fair enough. Nothing is worse to deal with than a crappy jack. If that doesn't work, I would recommending drilling a small, short screw through the wood of your control cavity, then attach some sort of grounding tab to it, and to that tab, put a 100n cap from that to the + on your on board...

I'm glad to hear that helped. (y) You using an electrolytic or film cap on as the output cap? Schematics say film. I wonder if the relatively high output impedance of the NE5532 opamp would contribute to the issue (it being a bjt opamp). The pedalpcb schematics have the Boss/Mr Black style...

Sounds like maybe a bypass issue? I've had pedals I've built exhibit noise similar to that, fixed by a 100n cap from +9V as soon as it comes into the pedal straight to the enclosure. This ensures that AC signals see + and ground at the same voltage potential and can help create a really...

Can we have pictures of the insides? Depending on the room you have to work with, it could be easy to try some solutions mentioned in this thread. A pedal that small might be a fair bit more difficult to add stuff to than a diy pedal with discrete jacks and power connectors and all that jazz.

That's totally fair! This certainly looks like a challenging one to pin down, but with the schematic I fully believe that with enough trial and error, you'll be able to nail it. (y) Does that have a diode check function? I believe that will be important to figure out what is going on.

That's kind of the gist of Mr Black Pedals article... like I said, it's good, but not great. He suggests removing the pulldown resistor at the input (because the input of the pedal circuit will be switched with ground anyways, or at least it should be), and add those two resistors I mentioned in...

Mmmmaybe at a stretch the 2u2 coupling electrolytic is causing problems cos of ESR. Do you have any film caps to jam in there? Maybe in a tantalum. Barring that, put a 100k resistor to ground between the last volume pot and the output. Then a 1k to in series from the volume pot output to the...

Switch bouncing and etc will probably contribute to that. Maybe boss's updated switch/buffer for the waza series isn't such a bad idea.

Popping is a genuine menace, even if you do everything, "properly." Here's an idea for solving , "L.E.D. popping," from amz. I put that in quotation marks because, honestly, I've never found LEDs to be a source of popping. Maybe it's an issue in this case. Here's an annoying article from Mr...

I highly recommend using isolated jacks (at least on the output) for a build like this. Tie the ground lug of the input jack to the chasis (as near as possible to the entry point, so something like a star washer around the jack would do). On the output side, tie the ground lug to chasis via a...

You also need to pay attention to the grounding scheme. This is not intuitive. Here is a great post on diystomboxes. Standard, perhaps, but not the best ;) 😂

Sorry I haven't replied! Nothing looks obviously out of order here. It's not immediately clear exactly how it all works without having one in front of me, or a schematic. There certainly is a lot going on. Can you follow traces? If so, do you have access to a signal tracer/oscilloscope? If also...

There are a few possible pain points here. If it's the threshold that's causing the problems, it could be the octo-coupler or maybe the side-chain (i.e. what the octo-coupler is reacting to). Could you post some images of the board? I would maybe start by measuring the resistance of the LDR...

Very interesting developments! Disappointing to here that this sounds... well, disappointing! Absolutely bizarre to have a feature that involves cross-talk between traces.

I have an XO stereo polychorus - I've always wondered how different it would sound to this project.is

There are really only 4. The cathode of D4 and the anode of D3 are tied together. The Fuzz Dog schematic chooses to lay them out like that because that's what it looks like on the PCB. Compare that to the GGG schematic which shows the full bridge rectifier as you might see in an EE textbook...

Haha no worries mate, confusion happens (y) Diodes can be done with a 4PDT. It would just be a pain in the rear because it would involve stitching multiple diodes together at single point. It would truly be the most disgusting toggle switch in the world. I'm considering drawing up the...

Hahah no worries, I've definitely said one when I meant the other before! It's Q2 and Q3 (according to the post you're responding to) that have been switched to germanium, not the diodes ;)

I do believe that would make them soft clipping, not hard clipping, which is where my confusion arrived :)

Very cool! When you said putting a jumper on either side of R21, did you mean putting the diodes to ground before or after that resistor?