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Can you upload a photo?

I think you may have your LED in backwards. The cathode is the flat part and should go into the K pad. It's also installed on the wrong side of the board, should be installed on the same side as the pots.

Your positive leads on the jacks are wired to the switched tip lug, rather than the tip. http://wiki.pedalpcb.com/wiki/File:1-4%22_Jack_Pinout.jpg

Too easy, cheers!

Does anyone know where to source just the back plates for a 125B enclosure? One of my neighbors did some "cleaning" in the back yard where my painted plates were drying and tossed them ?

2SK184 and 2N5457 appear to have the same pinout. I'd socket them and see how it affects the overall sound.

Take your time :) Once it's in post some photos and do some more continuity tests. If you're not getting continuity you can always add some jumpers.

You'll need to add jumpers wherever you don't have continuity. If you've got a solder sucker or solder wick that can help you remove excess solder before trying to reinstall a component. If you're having trouble getting it back in the right way, just go one leg at a time. Get it most of the way...

You can use your DMM to test for continuity between points that are supposed to be connected. Use the colours in the pictures above. You should get continuity between any red pad to another red pad. Then check yellow, then blue.

That's fine, I'd be very surprised if there was an audible difference.

That looks fantastic, nice work!

I was previously using an A1M, but swapped it out for an A500K because that's all I had and know earlier versions used it. The oscillation happens with both pots.

I've tried a few opamp's but haven't tried another charge pump yet. I've got some spares so I'll give it a go. I burned the pads for C1, which is why it's now a jumper. Replaced drive pot and still having the same issues.

I noticed this with my last round of Tayda knobs/pots and just squashed those suckers on ?

SW3 is really obvious now that you mention it, thanks! @music6000 those jumpers look correct to me.

You'll still need to use a jumper there in place of the switch, because there's nothing for the switch to switch to, if that makes sense. Without something bridging those two pads, either a jumper or a switch, your board won't get power. As long as your components are rated for at least 25v, I...

Actually I think you should be ok. Looking at the schematic again I think the gain and bypass footswitches should work normally. I am a little confused by SW3 in the schematic (highlighted). The two 3PDT's and SPDT for voltage are all accounted for in the build docs, but not SW3. If you're...

Correct. If you follow the schematic you can see where the IC is that increases the voltage. You can just follow the highlighted path, ignore everything below it, and you should be sweet! It looks like the LT1054 also integrates the switchable gain option, so unfortunately you'll also lose this too.

So my drive pot and IC seem ok, I'm now suspecting a bad capacitor somewhere. On inspection all components are correct and there's no sign of any caps being visibly faulty. It's a little tricky to track down with an audio probe because the oscillation is permeating the whole circuit. I think...

Just like Nostradoomus said, the orientation of the socket is irrelevant. As long as the IC itself is the correct orientation it'll work. Personally, I think this circuit is a lot more interesting at 9v anyway. I just left the charge pump out of my simulcast.