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trying to figure out the EQ points on the 1212, and I'm coming up short trying to find a calculator for this. it almost works in a baxandall calculator, but they all use an op-amp so the configuration is different. can anyone point me in the direction of a resource for this? or if you've got the...

way late here, but I had the same issue. got 2 of them to 9v on the dot, last one wouldn't get below 10.something. fired it up anyway, and it sounds great. I'm sure it's a factor in the sound, but it still sounds good, so I left it alone. the way I see it, tolerances on those old amps were...

that had a really positive effect, thank you. it also got me wondering, how would I wire up a pot instead of R9? if I got a 5k pot and a 5.1k resistor, I could vary the resistance from 10 to 5k, sweeping the cutoff frequency between the stock 480hz and approx 1000hz, right?

it's a great circuit. borderline good enough to not need any boost, but sometimes you just need that low end shaved off. where in this circuit could I sneak a HPF to clean up the low end a bit? any chance I could use C2 and just run a 100k (or close value) resistor to ground and put that on a...

Diode switch is on/on. I don’t know much about electrolytic caps and assumed they are power related, so it wouldn’t be my first guess. Don’t wanna blow anything up 😅

I was playing a telecaster. I’d totally understand if it was one of my baritone death machines 😅 Losing the maximum gain isn’t so much of a problem. Anywhere past noon starts to get a little too raggedy.

I’m looking to make a tweak so that at minimum “more” it’s even cleaner. The highest range of it isn’t super usable for me, but the lowest setting isn’t quite subtle enough. My first thought was the bias, but the “more” knob IS the bias. Any idea what I could change to clean it up a little more?

you know, i think it might just be the electricity in my building again. there are dimmer switches all over the place and if someone has the right light on, everything is a buzzy mess here. pretty sure everything is working properly now. thanks dudes

This is on a Kliche mini pcb

okay, so it turns out i had my leads switched around. it's clipping now. i have it set up exactly as you have described here, i just needed to swap the wires going to the diode pads. ditched the jumper, and now the noise is back. like a bad ground kind of noise. that noise initially went away...

I've got a SPDT on/on switch, on the outer legs are pairs of diodes, the stock germanium and LED's. both sets of diodes are feeding off the negative end of the diode pad, and returning from the middle lug of the switch to the positive side on the diode pad. the other diode pads are jumpered...

AH, so i AM overthinking it. thank you for clearing that up. my fear was that since resistors have no polarity, that it would still be in play. my understanding was the the only thing that will stop electricity from going backward was a diode. EDIT: i just realized i was thinking about it...

so i follow the part where i can tell 3 incoming signals wired to common to go either one side or the other, but i'm not entirely sure how i'd do that with resistors. 2-5-8 from the board, the "stock" stock resistors on 1-4-7 to the board, and the "mod" resistors on 3-5-8 to the board. but won't...

hi folks, i'm relatively new here, so if there's already a thread on this that comes mind, i'd appreciate a link. i'm looking into building a klon, but making some tweaks with popular mods. a toggle for clipping diodes, a toggle for a fat switch, and the one i need help with, a switch to change...

slight update. it seems that my testing of the godlyke power supply didn't make it past seeing if the LED came on. tried it again. works. quiet. no horrible noise. but also the LED isn't on. so 2 power supplies work and sound good but won't turn the light on, and some power supplies will turn...

2 of the radioshack adaptors can be switched. the godlyke is center pin negative. as is the 1spot.

sorry. that may have been a little too millennial cringe for this forum. head desk. like face palm. only your head into the desk. at my disposal i have a 9-12v switching adaptor from radio shack (read: old). that turns the pedal on but gives me the gnarly noise. reading 10.4v another 9v...

i'm getting -10 and 10 at pins 4 and 8 of IC1. based on micmac"s measurements, that's too high. no reason to write them all down, the readings at every leg of all 3 IC's is too high. 10v at R100 too. just measured the power adaptor i have. it's kicking out 10.4 (headdesk)

i surprisingly CAN rule that out, as i know my apartment to be very noisy and the first thing my guitar hits is an ISP hum extractor + decimator. with the pedal disengaged and a butt ton of gain on my amp instead, nearly silent.

the sea terror lives! i've got sound, all my controls work, and finally all that time i spent on paint paid off. the noise persists. it's not like a gainy amp hiss, it is a constant kind of square wave drone. the noise is affected by the tone controls as well as the gain, so it's a safe bet that...