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I noticed you had build another Minnow earlier described here. Both builds have some tweaks and mods. How would you compare them overall? I looked at an old YT clip of the Tonepad version which has an Up/Down switch mod. (red box) It is located between R21 and the Mode switch 1 in the Minnow...

Thanks! I misunderstood and thought the clock module was a module already part of the original pcb build and that the mod was add a pot to control it. But always interesting with new insights 😀 Edit: and I found a clock module thread https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/fv1-clock-module.50/

Looks awsome! And thanks for the sample. Where/How did you put the Clock control in? Pot value? It affects the rate, right? In what way does it excel if not pitch shift? (Slapback I think I got the idea)

I was planning on this: https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/particle_documentation.pdf So I breadboarded it and felt that in the diode setup with 2 Ge (OA1182) vs 4 Si 1N914, the 4 ones did not differ that much from middle position, ie no diode option in the schematics. 2x 1N914 however does...

Did you find much difference betwen 470pF and 550pF for the C27? (Big build)

Sorry for the long time in reply.... Most of my wall warts do not have ground, sometimes that introduces issues.

You can increase the heat on the solder iron perhaps? Just started on Chop Shop after having done an Aion build. Nothing happened when trying to solder, not even after iso cleaning and flux paste. Turned iron up from 395 to 420 C and it seems to help at least enough.

What is tack solder? I use tack (?) I think to keep things in place. It is like a grey mass sticky to put say posters on a wall when you are young and the poster of the month is more important that satins on the wallpaper...

Many thanks! Will try to test if I would like it. Either as a change or as an SPDT option (knowing myself it will be the latter). I wish there was some type of cables you could fit in an eyelet on a pcb that would stick/stay and connect the other end to breadboard. I can do socket, but prefer...

Nice! Did the 470pF change the delay much on the other side of the speed spectrum? Better to put 470 and 220 on an SPDT?

Wondering the same. Saw a test if 13 (ivantec?) On YT. Nice video. Hiwever some come through as very synthetic in the upper region, but Chicago Iron and Octaviuzz a bit less so. Struggling to find shematics, layout etc for them to compare or mod existing octavia clones.

No, I would say the switches do their things: When set to A, the rate of B changes to the one of A, but sounds as weak still. Invert I can tell something happens, but no change to the strength of B. EDIT: I can't see any differences in the section around the LEDs, so it does not seem to be any...

Want one of those...

So there is noting inherent to the circuit that would accoundnfor A B difference?

Since it is the B side that is the weaker one, I felt when set to B (and they are independent) Innotice the difference, when set to A I felt A way of sounding sort of took over. Reverse I could not tell much changed at initial trying things out so did not experiment with it either. I thought it...

No not yet.

Thanks, I think that is my problem as well. The more intense one's side sounds as I would have hoped, and the more dimmed one a bit bleak. I decided to open a new thread, let's see if there are some suggestions.

I just finished setting up a Duo-Phase build. I did the instructions from third post and link in second here, and that seems to work. I put the trimmers on pots for external control and add shields @Chuck D. Bones style. But I still feel the Blue side/first side/B-side/right from knob...

Did you manage to adjust this somehow in the end?

FWIW: I have adopted a way of working to check the legs after soldering and before cutting. I DMM from a leg to the points in the schematic where they should go. Tedious? Yes. Do I find any bad soldering points or broken traces? Some, not a huge deal, but after some earlier larger builds I...