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Thanks, was about to apologize for hogging and derailing your tread...

Can't wrap my head around this... Please correct me if I am wrong. The DPDT should be type2. Tayda pinout numbering does not seem to match the pcb and schematic. It seems that looking ar pcb from component side/most text side would indicate pinout 4 1 5 2 6 3 And combining with schematic I think...

I haven't started soldering yet, so no experience from me on this build. But, looking at the daughter board you can see the traces in the back, and work out which pad goes to which lug. Maybe you can use this info and bypass the daughter board with an unslodered 3pdt?

Thanks. Yes, I am sure Tayda are a good. I got an enclosure from them a while back. But shipping and customs to Sweden and whatever other fees they imagined made any bargain lose its value. Took over a month as well if I remember. Fast to EU border, but then... I have a shop in my city with a...

Thanks for the drill template @Tassieviking. The one I got from https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AhgdvQF9y32I8An0m1vaOU9VhufoSSim/view only gave me a grid of holes. I drill myself and buy enclosures locally. Once you have the holes at each end of the 5 "bars", would you use a milling machine? Or...

Thanks for this! I followed the Tayda link, and interesting enough they only have one DPDT On-On-On which is the type 2 from my understanding. They seem to number the lugs 6 3 5 2 4 1 But it is symmetrical so my usual thinking 1 4 2 5 3 6 also show as Type 2 Compared with Gives me Type 2...

Did you manage to sort this out? Fwiw, soldering 3PDTs with sligtly too long time (and heat) can make the lugs become loose in the plastic and the fuction is reduced or lost. Touch wood, but so far i have managed to reheat and push lugs back in when plastic is hot and soft.

@bluedmc777 : how did you drill "bars". Template only has holes and they do not match the bars that well either...

I just got the kit. It says on on on for dpdt, but I got on off on. Trying to read the schematic and figure out what works and not, but I couldn't figure it out. My understanding is that On on on Dpdt have two versions on what connects in the middle position. Since type 1 or 2 is important for...

So you swapped the 2u2 for a 470n (or 220n) instead? And also added 100n film on the input? Was that from input to ground?

I am a bit late to the party... What might I have done wrong? I can't hear any real difference with the Tone knob. I opened it up again and measured that the 25k does its job towards the surrounding components and it looks as I imagine it should. But I can't really tell anything from turning it...

@eh là bas ma : You need a new pedal project... Now. And a big complex one... Ok, points taken. And there are times when minimalistic bezels would be most fitting for sure. Even the non-bezel ones look very nice in some pedals, but for that situation, how fit them, make them stay put and still...

I actually bought some 5mm Bezels yesterday. In Black. Some kind of hard plastic. Not shiny at all. The small one from musikding that come with the kits I never use. To me, they feel a bit too "cheap" (for want of a better word) and those lightsharing LEDs deserve the best.

Well I bought a Chrome before just to see... Slight difference side by side in the shine. :) Yes, I am now measuring extra times, checking connectivity, and no bridges etc. I got a liter of IPA-1000 Isopropsomething and tried to clean with it, then let my PCB just lie there for a while and it...

I found it again. The LDR selection is in the description of a different but very close build called Lola phase, in the Build notes section: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WDIcJKwfED5GuEUQh-Zo87qZaRinuMxV/view?usp=drivesdk This doc seems to have many other useful instructions as well

I stumbled on a selection method. Basically set one of them up, with an LED. Adjust until the LDR reads 1k, then check the others. Keep within 5% deviation until you have 12. This does not help you in buying I guess. I got mine from Das Musikding in a kit and did not verify them yet.

Thanks, So you put them even a bit closer to the LED than what the the pictures at the beginning of the thread (May 22) show?

Great work! A bit late to the party, but still hoping: I assume the LDRs are bent so that the wavelike side is facing the LED, and the LED is flush to the board. Then how do you place the LDRs at an optimal height? Or maybe it does not matter that much...

Of course I stumble on your name after "Hmm, wonder what my next build might be. Oh, this flanger looks challenging..." I hope you Christmas is a good one with or without white washers or chrome bezels. Btw, Did you ever compare the Chrome with Nickel? I tried to A/B them but I think my amp was...

Thanks @p_wats , the subtle effect had me a bit confused as well.