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I think yes. If I’m doing this correctly, the gain across IC2 is (1+50k/1k) = 6. If you increase the pot it would be (1+250k/1k) = 26. But I think the diodes will lessen the impact. Maybe someone else will chime in on that part.

It looks like Pot 3 is in row 25 and IC 1 is in row 36 on the bottom of the picture. But I can’t see how they are connected. That IC 1 node is a big one, it connects to R8, D2, D3, C3, and pot 2&3. Edit: I think I see that it is connected.

It’s difficult to see, but IC1.1 pin 1 should go to gain pot 2 and 3. Is that happening?

What are you? A professional on/on/on installer? I’m a monkey with a crayon compared to that. 🐵 That’s what I’m doing next time I need Fat, Fatter, Fattest. Or Doom, Doomy, Doomest.

Yes, so C1 would be 18 nF. C2 would be 15 (so middle position is 15+18=33). Then C3 could be an 82, to give 15+82=97. That’s a little shy of 33+68. I picked 82 because that’s what Tayda has in stock. You could add a 4n F in parallel to the 82 (or some other combo that adds up to 86). I...

No, the middle lugs act like 2 separate switches. Referencing the Tayda diagram, you could replace the blue and green side with 2 separate single pole switches. And flip the green and blue individually. (I’m not sure if that helps you picture it or not) I like the on/on/on idea, because you...

If parallel, I think you could do it with this one: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-toggle-switch-dpdt-on-on-on-mts2033.html Double check this, but I think: Input goes to both middle lugs. Top green goes to Cap 1. Top blue is empty. Bottom blue goes to Cap 2. Bottom green goes...

Is 2+3 in parallel or series?

Be careful with the Pharaoh, I think the schematics at the Aion and kit rae sites are wrong. There should be no 47n. Only 470n and 470p. Granted, I haven't traced one myself, I'm going off of this thread: https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=14040&hilit=pharaoh&start=80 I built it...

It should. Barry’s right, I forgot the kliche has a special footswitch setup. So my revised statement would be: Basically, the first one (SHO) gets wired to the input jack and power and ground in the normal way. The second one (Kliche) gets wired to the output jack and power and ground in the...

Basically, the first one (SHO) gets wired to the input jack and power and ground in the normal way. The second one (Kliche) gets wired to the output jack and power and ground in the normal way. Then connect footswitch 1 output to footswitch 2 input.

https://wiki.pedalpcb.com/wiki/Main_Page Scroll down to Wiring Diagrams.

I try to look ahead at the next 3-5 pedals I will build. I order all the parts at once, and add a few extra of the more common parts. (By looking at the parts lists for your next planned pedals, you’ll get a feel for parts that keep showing up repeatedly). I think you will get a variety of...

It looks like it’s the dry mod switch. When it’s on, the dry signal is always present in the output. I copied off @JamieJ and put the switch by the jacks: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/hydra-with-100-dry-switch.9923/

Excellent, thank you. I'll add a few of each to my next order.

Thanks for the write up on the differences. Which Tayda LDR did you use, KE-10715?

Don’t get discouraged. It took me a week to debug my last breadboard circuit. I’d work on it until I got frustrated, then walk away from it. My approach is to walk through the circuit and check that each node (junction) is connected to the right things. In some cases, it’s simple. In the...

I’ve also got the parts to build a thumb sucker. I figure I’ll bread board all 3 and see what stands out. This 3 part series is a good read: http://www.muzique.com/lab/compz.htm

Could it be working as intended? If you assemble the enclosure and don’t look at the light, what do you think? Edit: I want to build a delegate but not sure which version. Maybe I’ll breadboard both and see how they compare.

Those look great! How did you do the artwork and printing?