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Say the names faster and let the words run together: Torn's Peaker = Torn Speaker Soda Meiser = Sodomizer

I think the favorite name she used was Soda Meiser.

Can't you run both sections off that same input buffer?

Very neat! Also love that hammertone finish.

The power filtering stuff is already on the vero layout. It is 99% of the time. https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

The Fulltone 69 has a 1k pot in series with a 220 ohm resistor set up similar to that Tactical Fuzz, but he labeled it Contour. It's going to affect q2 bias, but I'm not sure if he biased Q2 with the pot cranked or at what position.

The other pot will still be connected and will be affecting the output impedance and messing with the output to the other pot.

What you've got is a vero layout, not a schematic, just to use the correct terminology. Here's the schematic:

R3 is 1k. I forgot to say it has a 4.7k resistor in series with the b10k pot. Check out how I used it on this Powderkeg fuzz: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/powderkeg.19330/

That's awesome! Great job.

You can switch the a1m drive pot to a500k. Or if you want something you can switch back and forth put R7 and C3 on a switch. Change between the stock values to 10k and 22n for the same frequency response with about half the gain.

Take anything Mason Marangella says with a grain of salt. That guy is a con artist and a clown. I can't believe he's still in the industry.

Make R3 1k and replace R4 with a b10k pot for a q2 bias. It has a good useable range. I've used that setup with some Meathead and Colorsound fuzz clones several times.

I use a Hakko FX88D set to 750 Farenheit, which is almost 400 Celcius, with 63/37 leaded solder. Get in and get out. I ususally touch the tip to the part/pad, count to 3, give a couple dabs of solder, count to 3 again, and take the iron off. I'm not saying I'm the best solder jockey ever, but I...

That's a crazy good deal, but am I ever going to use 98 more of these d9b diodes? Hmm. :unsure: Is leakage something to consider in a hard clipping circuit? I'm assuming this is some kind of hard clipper, but the schematic isn't out yet and I didn't trace the pcb when I got it.

That looks fantastic. Was the art a waterslide or some kind of print? I thought that circuit was jfets like some of their others. I didn't realize it was mosfet based, which is cool.

I double checked your resistor color codes against the build doc and they're all in the correct spot. I'm not sure what else it could be. You could make an audio probe and see where the signal quits in the circuit to trouble shoot it more. I understand shelving it for now though. I would also...

Check continuity. Engage the switch. Test continuity again. If it beeps one way and not the other then you don't have the short, it was just the switch connecting it to ground like Robert said.

If you touch two separate points and the buzzer goes off that means those two points are connected. So if you touched both ends of a resistor and it goes off either the resistor is toast or there is a short somewhere connecting those pads.

I'm talking out of my ass here, but I think it's a lot easier to counterfeit a Vera Wang dress, Calvin Klein shirt, or whatever garment because it doesn't require a bunch of specialized equipment or highly trained craftspeople like creating a musical instrument. These people can definitely run a...