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JFET compressors are known to achieve distortion, but that typically happens with the attack and release set fast (all the way counterclockwise), then having the 'compress' (a.k.a. 'sustain' or 'ratio') up past 1 o'clock. That said, being fully clockwise on the trim pot could be causing your...

Awesome - thanks!

@Robert & @pbrommer: thanks for your prompt and informative replies! Patrick: been a while, hope all is good with you and yours! A little AGF bad news, our master electronics friend Mozz passed away. One more question, was the download of Spin CAD-Designer straight forward?

After building the Arachnid, I am finding myself wanting to expand a bit down that path. A few questions: 1.) On the Arachnid: if I install a SPDT switch and send the EV-1 pin#13 to ground via where it connects to R5, will I be able to switch between the EEPROM and the FV-1's internal...

It appears to be a resistive leak of Vref, which could be caused by the concentric gain pot's pins shorting to ground, or a defective TL072, possibly a fault in the voltage divider or leads of the Vref. If insulating the gain pot doesn't fix it, try pulling IC1 and IC2 from their sockets...

Thanks again!

Bingo! Thought I bought the Octagon EPROM and I actually ordered the Module8 (as written above, but it didn't dawn on me until your post! Yes all the programs of the Module8 function as described. The problem must be the custom EPROM I ordered from PedalPCB, which should have had 'Blackface...

Thanks for the recommendation and info. I'll check again, but I am sure I had +3.3V to the common of the decade switch and checked all continuity. I don't recall checking all the combinations, so I will check that.

I appreciate your recommendation! I performed a pin-to-pin short test and there were no sequential pin short circuits, except as designed (pins 11 & 12, pins 24 & 25). I also performed a comprehensive continuity check (gently) from the top of the pins (not the pads) to the prior / next...

I stand corrected. Reviewing the circuit, it is a rudimentary way of tightening the Q and it shifts the frequency band a bit. I am used to the 'gold standard' of parametric EQ, my Furman PQ3, which goes about it in a more effective way. Appreciate the correction!

No. The switch lets you choose between a range of high mids and low mids. In music speak, a 'Q' control goes from very broad, shelving EQ to very narrow, like a singel position of a wah pedal.

I completed and tested a Maleficent Mids parametric EQ build today. The only change is I substituted an OPA2134 for the NE5532, because it is what I had on hand that was HiFi ish. It is a good pedal. IMHO, it needs a 'Q' control (broad or narrow on the center frequency) and I am going to take...

Sunday bump. Anyone ever build one of these?

No, the problem affects any selection which is supposed to have delay or reverb. I just re-performed the continuity check thru each stage of the diode array, from the +3.3V common pin of the decade selector, to the diodes for that selection and to the pins. I performed the same check reading...

To @Robert or any other FV-1 experts: My first 'DSP' build is almost alive: An Arachnid V2, with a Module 8 and a custom EPROM 24LC32A (both from Pedal PCB). Additional info: FV-1 and 32.768HZ crystal from Amplified Parts. I used static protection, which includes a Spidel ground wrist strap...

I did not have any oscillations. As I originally posted, I found the boost to be only slightly stronger than unity gain and it cuts some low end frequencies. Risk of oscillations is why I use a Cliff jack on the input (limits the chassis to having a single source to ground, the output jack)...

The LED on the face of the pedal are just channel off/on indicator light (red for drive and blue for boost). Yes, the '50w' clipping option on the toggle is supposed to be a red LED by design. I used a red + green pair (internal) for a little asymmetry. The LEDS I have to choose from each...

I just reviewed the datasheet and internal block diagram of the OP07 IC. It does not indicate being internally compensated. I recommend socketing the cap and trying out values to see which you prefer, as well as no cap. I can tell you the no cap will be harsh.

Just finished an Angry Andy for a friend. Never heard the original and was impressed with the sound of this. The boost sounds like a bit of a treble boost in the sweet spot and IMHO, needs a little more dB. However, my friend wanted it built to original specs.

Given the description, I agree with HBC's diagnosis. Sounds like a common component. Check to see if the decade switch is functioning as designed.