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Hey Patrick - reviving an older post. When you mention 'patches', does a builder need an EPROM programmer?

I built this Marble Drive in 2022, which is based on the 'Marvel Drive', to which I call mine 'Prodigy'. It was built to the schematic and bias values people cited, which is pretty much a Marshall model 1987 / 1959 (50w / 100w), except using J-201 FETS instead of tubes. It was really hard to...

IMHO, the artifacts of a decent regulated and filtered supply, rarely present themselves as audible noise floor. I could see a logical argument for it affecting linearity of amplification of an effect (clarity and evenness), which would be quite overcome by a boost or dirt pedal. I build my own...

With the toggle in the middle 'off' position, using a DMM check for continuity (1 Ohm 'beep') between the legs of C1 and the solder pin 2 of the switch. It should have continuity in all switch positions, including 'off'. Next check pin 2 to the base pin of Q1, with the 2nd pin of the switch...

Looks like spaghetti. All that wire makes for a great antenna to pull in RFI and create oscillations. I too recommend reducing the wire.

^ This. From the look of it, it appears to be a small value in the picofarads. From what we know of Bonamassa (he dislikes brittle trebles and prefers thick, dark tones), that is a 100pF ish cap to take out the RF (Radio Frequencies) and shrill highs.

Somehow, I accidentally dropped a Spin FV-1 DSP IC into my cart while making a purchase at my electronics supply company. I had no preconceived use for this. What PedalPCB would you build with this chip?

Looks like a clean and professional build! For me with a guitar into a 60's Fender, it makes for a multidimensional 'big' clean sound.

90% snake oil. The inner components are what makes a tube microphonic, especially the very fine control grid. The speaker vibrations travel through the tube pins, more so than by way of the glass. With some exceptions of cheap import tubes from the 70's & early 80's made with thin glass...

Inspect all the wires at the solder joints for breaks. The lead solder of the era had acid rosin in it to make it flow and would corrode (then break) its aluminum wires, simply by a function of time and oxidation. Next, clean the switch with contact cleaner. It looks to be a mechanical...

@RobotZombie23 asked me to post this modification to a wah-wah effect pedal, as manufactured by the Jim Dunlop company (Cry Baby, Dunlop, Vox, etc). The relay is a an HK19F-HP-5V, which can be purchased on Amazon for a few $. Here is the schematic: And here is the Layout:

That might have been an ingredient. I had an OIP cap go short while I was working on a mid-60's Layfette (MIJ) tube amp in the 90's, which the smoke produced smelled like rancid fish.

Lol. I am sure that was the preferred tone caps of the Grateful Dead. If you want that P-Diddy tone, it would be baby oil all the way!

I wanted to give you a 'thumbs-up' emoji and a 'Lol' emoji at the same time! FWIW: I have a client who I do amp, pickup and pedal work for who is also an OCD gunsmith. He keeps me on my toes, right down to label placement!

IMHO, the best resistor is a function of what you are after. The standard fare Amazon metal film resistors are a great value. Other than I wish they had a little more diameter to their leads, they tend to be in a very tight tolerance to their stated value. Which is great when you are after...

I am sure like the Klon, it takes some tweaking of components to get the 'blend' to be seamless AND musical.

I misread it the first time and it behaves like I thought. When Gain A goes hotter, the Gain B for the post-clipping recovery takes some of the loudness out (moves toward being a buffer).

Interesting indeed. That design looked like they were originally aiming at a two-control pedal in using the concentric pot to reduce the 2nd stage recovery when the 1st stage is pushed.

It looks like many distortion circuits which employ one dual op amp. Looks a lot like an OCD with buffers and LEDs for clippers. The first stage is pushing the mid-range somewhat like a TS but centered on 965hz frequency instead of 723hz (TS). It also looks like its low range of gain starts...