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My usual "go-to" method for testing a circuit is to simply connect [+] [-] IN and OUT of each channel. Is this not possible to test each channel of the Thermionic Deluxe individually w/o everything being wired together? My breakout box was connected to IN and OUT pads in place of 3PDT, but I was...

First to last... Hyped Fuzz, Stereo Heterodyne Receiver, Leprechaun, Caesar Chorus, Greengage, Chela, Promethium, Spirit Box, Parentheses Fuzz, Dark Rift Delay.

This will be my first pedal using the 32.768 Crystal. Are those polarized or should I treat it as a film cap and just drop it in? Thanks!

So I tracked that builder down through social media and asked where he referenced it from, and he stated he is almost positive that it is the same rotary switch position/labeling order. He added that it makes little difference due to how crazy this pedal sounds at any [rotary] position. 😄

That looks really cool. Honestly, I was going for a similar layout to the compared pedal, as in a key/legend text box with a description of what position does what. It's funny how it's a rather easy board, but the complexity comes with the layout with this one.

I should have been more clear, I was curious if the 1-8 positions were related to the same octaves and intervals as on the "compared" pedal. For example... master oscillator position 5 = +2 oct and M3 interval?

Totally agree. You hear what you want to hear. Better to look at the data if you want real answers.

OP07 sounds great. It is a direct replacement for the LM308.

Is the SuperHeterodyne Receiver rotary switch order the same as the pedal that it is "compared" to? I've seen some artwork that was identical to the comparative pedal and just wanted to make sure before I committed to a layout design. Thank you!

Figured it out. Jumper pads 2 and 3 for the H and L [Eq], and for the Vol control use a 10k resistor to jump pads 1 and 2, and a shunt of wire to jump pads 2 and 3. One knob [gain] Promethium.

I want to have the Vol, Low, and High set to max without the use of internal trimmers. Is that as simple as bridging pads 2 and 3 with an equivalent value resistor? Also, wouldn't a shunt of wire bridging pads 1 and 2 be needed also, as to divert any "leftover" signal/noise? Thanks in advance!

Just finished this one and it is pure destruction! Follow the build guide and match your diodes for proper octave response, mine was right at 3.50. Straight forward easy build for being a larger board. I really had a lot of fun with this build.

Thank you!

I wanted to check if I have the order correct regarding the [4 position] rotary switch. L to R / Clockwise, as follows... OpAmp, Asymmetrical, Symmetrical, Ge? -Thank you in advance!

I wanted to check if I have the order correct regarding the [4 position] rotary switch. L to R / Clockwise, as follows... OpAmp, Asymmetrical, Symmetrical, Ge? -Thank you in advance!

I just finished my Leprechaun build [with expression jack] and it sounds just as I hoped it would!

If you stick to the BOM it is 99% identical. You always must take into consideration parts tolerances we are using are much better than the original Boss units from the 80's.

I wanted to check if I have the order correct regarding the [4 position] rotary switch. L to R / Clockwise, as follows... OpAmp, Asymmetrical, Symmetrical, Ge? -Thank you in advance!

Yes, I would greatly appreciate this!

The one I am currently building is a PedalPCB Muroidea, into a GodCity HM-2 EQ [Murdock] blender circuit, where both are paired with a GuitarPCB blender circuit. It will be fun to boost it for a rhythm guitar, and the blender circuit will make it perfect for a nasty bass tone too.