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To @Bricksnbeatles point, your pot being upside down may create weird controls. And definitely won’t fit the drill template.

I used 1N914 in my build and I think it sounds great. I think the hype and mojo are dominant here. I doubt you’ll hear significant differences with the “correct” diodes.

Is that what happened? It must suck to be that person!

Did you guys see there was a global outage yesterday? Nothing worked for a few hours.

Your builds are always so inspiring! That enclosure is really cool.

🤦‍♂️ thank you!

I have searched this forum a bit but haven’t been able to find drill templates for the standard PedalPCB spacing (2, 3, 4, 6 knobs). I don’t see the predrilled options being offered by Tayda anymore so I think others could use these templates too. Also I often want to move the LED anyways. Did...

@Robert can we pin the PedalPCB standard templates at the top of this sub-forum so they are easier to find? Took me a while to find this…

You’re using the TL022 for the oscillator correct? If not that could fix the bleeding oscillator.

For my own understanding, the Ge transistors work with reverse beta which is completely undocumented? Now that is punk.

You can achieve a similar result with a reverse engraved two layer acrylic. I’m gonna have to try that at some point…

When the switch is in the lower position both LEDs are in series right? And in the other position only one of them has current. Am I looking at it wrong?

That’s a big capacitor!

So it’s either one or both colors on? But never the other color by itself?

Yeah @Nostradoomus pointed out the solder joints already. You mentioned you had reflowed the solder joints? Maybe add another picture so we can do further visual inspection? After another look I do think the GND pads need to be connected to ground too. I didn’t notice that at first. I don’t...

Now I’m intrigued! I don’t think I’m that smart but I would be happy to design and build an acrylic faceplate if you’re interested!

Maybe I’m misremembering and it was 2mm thickness that caused me issues?

Yeah on top of the aluminum enclosure. If I go above 1mm or maybe 1.2mm I can get into trouble. Not sure how thick Tayda enclosures are but it’s gotta be at least 1mm? I should take another look at some of my failed faceplates.

How are you audio probing this? What tools are you using? What you describe doesn’t make a lot of sense. You can’t have signal at the output of IC1 but not at the input. One thing others have not mentioned: did you make sure all the components have the correct values? Did you measure them...

I make laser engraved acrylic faceplates and I can say that more than 1mm is going to be a problem because pot shafts are not usually long enough for more than that. Basically you end up not being able to screw the nuts back on. Also phrasing.