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Thank you! I ordered the GT402s from StompBoxParts pre-binned. For the Twin Bender I went with a 60-70, 90-100, and a 110-120. For the Solaris I used a 70-80, and a 120-130. I do the drilling by hand, using (film free) decals for my marks.

I’ve really fallen for these two :) I built the Two Tone Fuzz (RambleFX Twin Bender) first and loved the sound of the GT402s so much I knew I wanted to build a Fuzzface with some too. I chose the Aion FX Solaris pcb after having such a good experience with the AMZ pickup simulator used in the...

That looks beautiful :) I use Inkscape too. I ‘print’ the drill page to PDF and then import that page into Inkscape. I leave all the import options default. The PCB mounted pots have a bit of give, if you were to put a washer and nut on there, at least temporarily, would it pull it into the...

Here's a pair I was excited to get on my board. Long ago I owned the rare AF Electrofoods Kerria Lacca which is a collab with EAE. Basically it's a EAE Surveyor and a Electrofoods Lil Pig in a box not unlike the EAE Dude Incredible. I missed having those sound textures. For the Surveyor it was...

Twin Town Fuzz. I built this, I love it. Seriously great take on the TB. On the original pedal "Impedance" is on the left and "Bias" is on the right. The PCB art on the store page has these two controls flipped. The rest of the controls match the original. Is the PCB art on the store page...

No. I do it by hand. I’m cheap af. I don’t even like to pay to have the enclosures painted.

I think you’ll need to put a jumper in place of the PCB led resistor.

I am so not curious about what’s on the pcb for the most part. I tend to only open pedals up if something is wrong. I guess I wish I would have opened up and taken a few notes on all the Electrofoods pedals before I sold them. But even then I have an idea of what most would look like anyway...

I had no idea haha. I guess I’m not the only nerd :)

I finished up these two last night. I was half asleep and half watching TV while I did the final (messy) wiring but no issues. The Dagger is named "1d4" for the truly nerdy. Both sound great :)

Awesome :)

Assuming there are no real issues in your build... with that tone stack - bass and treble at minimum and middle at max is as flat as it can get. Have you tried starting there? You talk about your treble and bass settings but not your middle, they are all very interactive with each other.

Is there a existing build doc with a drill template that would work for the Scabbard? It's a good one :)

I’d suggest getting the auditorium. It’s one of those things you’ll think “how did I live without this?” Or “why did I wait so long”. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb365/

Thank you all :) Inkscape for art. Sunnyscopa Film Free (laser). I am still perfecting the process but I followed posts 3 & 4 here: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/i-cant-waterslide.20565/#post-258616 One thing I add to that is that between oven times I allow the pedal to completely cool...

So about 20 years ago I was in that first internet surge of stomp box (and amp) DIYers. I have a lot of fond memories from then. I ordered schematics from repair houses of obscure pedals by snail mail (and shared them online). I made PCB layouts I would print on to PnP blue and then etch with...

That's why you get paid the big bucks. Thanks! I have four of these PCBs. This is saving me from buying another Strymon Ojai, but even better with 4 of these no more power split cords at all :)

For the 4 tap, in the pending build doc you list "L7805CV" which is a 5V voltage regulator, should it instead be "L7809CV" which is 9V?

Wow, that turned out awesome as well, it gives me some ideas of what’s possible.

The pedal looks killer. What kind of paint pen did you use for the white? Edit: NM I should have kept reading :)